Ag & Natural Resources News Articles
Firewood Pests
This is the season when many homeowners begin to burn firewood. Firewood is a source of warmth and comfort, but can also be a way for pests to enter homes. Most pests living in firewood pose no harm to people, furniture, or to the structure. Nonetheless, homeowners often become concerned when insects emerge from wood that is brought indoors, and crawl or fly about the house.
Several types of pests dwell within firewood. Termites, wood boring beetles, and carpenter ants often tunnel and feed within the logs, but upon emergence, usually will not infest structural wood or furniture inside the home. Other kinds of pests hide or overwinter beneath the bark. Examples include centipedes, ground beetles, sowbugs, pillbugs, spiders, scorpions and wood cockroaches. Typically, these pests emerge within a few days or weeks of the wood being brought indoors. For the most part, they are harmless other than by their presence.
Preventing Firewood pests:
Control of firewood pests is best accomplished by management of the firewood itself. Spraying/dousing the wood with insecticides is not necessary, effective, nor recommended, and could produce harmful vapors when the wood is burned. A better plan is to:
1. Store firewood outdoors, only bringing in what you plan to burn immediately or within a few hours. Storing firewood for extended periods inside the home, garage or basement allows pests in the wood to emerge within the structure. Firewood stacked indoors can also become a harborage for rodents.
2. Position the woodpile away from the house and off the ground. Firewood stacked against the side of a building impedes ventilation and encourages moisture problems. Storing the wood in this manner also provides a direct, hidden avenue for termites and carpenter ants into the structure. Stacking firewood off the ground (e.g., on poles suspended between concrete blocks) increases air circulation and drying.
3. Burn older wood first. This shortens the time during which pest infestations can become established.
4. Shake or knock logs together to dislodge any pests clinging to loose bark. Don’t forget to check bottoms of log carriers, since pests often crawl into these when the logs are transported into the home. The occasional insect emerging from firewood can easily be eliminated using a broom or a vacuum.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Controlling Lice on Beef Cattle
If cattle seem to be scratching excessively against trees, posts, and feeders, to the pint of rubbing off large patches of hair or creating raw sores, lice may be the reason. The species of biting and sucking lice that infest cattle are most numerous and active during the winter and can spread easily through the herd as cattle bunch in response to cold temperatures. Confirm that lice are the reason for the scratching by examining some animals in the herd. Part the animal's hair in spots where lice are likely to occur and look for lice eggs (nits) attached to hairs.
The single species of the biting louse on cattle is about 1/12 inch long with a yellow-white body and wide red head. It can be found all over the bodies of young and mature cattle. This oouse feeds on skin, skin secretions, and hair and is irritating. There are three species of sucking lice; they are blood feeders. These lice are most commonly found on the head, neck, brisket, withers, around the base of the tail and along the inner surfaces of the legs. Shortnosed and little blue cattle lice are more often found on older animals, the little blue louse tends to occur on the head. The long-nosed cattle louse is most often found on young cattle.
If lice are present, two insecticide applications may be needed to clean-up the infestation. The first treatment kills active adult and immature lice but does not kill nits or eggs on the hide. The second application, about 14 days later, targets newly hatched lice.
There are plenty of lice to go around. Different species also attack horses, goats, and swine, the signs and impact on these animals are very similar to what is seen on cattle, the control approach is similar, also.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Prevent Equine Infectious Anemia in Horses
Equine infectious anemia is a serious disease that affects all species of equine. Identifying infected horses and restricting their contact with susceptible animals is the key to preventing the spread of this disease. EIA is sometimes called "swamp fever".
This disease causes anemia by breaking down blood cells. It is transmitted from infected to susceptible horses by bites from insects, such as deer, stable flies and other bloodsucking horseflies. It also is spread by use of contaminated syringes, needles and tattoo or surgical equipment. Symptomatic stallions can infect healthy mares during breeding. The virus also can cross the placental barrier to cause fetal infection.
The potential to spread EIA is greater during the summer because biting insect populations are higher. Also, horses are used more this time of year, and there the risk is greater of mixing infected horses with susceptible ones.
While there are many ways for EIA to spread, identifying infected horses is easily done by a blood test.
The Coggins test is the most widely accepted diagnostic procedure. ELISA is another approved test. Both determine the presence of antibodies for EIA. The Coggins procedure requires a minimum of 24 hours for completion; ELISA takes much less time.
With the exception of unweaned foals accompanied by their dam, Kentucky requires proof of a negative, USDA-approved EIA test from the previous 12 months in any equine species offered for sale, traded, given away, leased and moved for the purpose of changing ownership. A negative test result also is required for equine being shown or used in activities where horses gather, such as the grounds of a fair or livestock show, public boarding stables, trail rides, racing and the like.
Owners transporting horses within Kentucky should have a copy of the test for each animal as proof of a current, negative test. Before taking horses outside Kentucky, contact the state veterinarian in each state where you will be traveling to make sure you comply with their EIA test regulations.
Horse owners can keep EIA from spreading by following some practical steps.
- Annually test horses using an approved test.
- Control biting flies around the stable and other areas where horses are kept.
- Use disposable hypodermic needles.
- Always use a new needle and syringe for each horse.
- Clean and sterilize all instruments by boiling them for 15 minutes before reusing on a different horse.
- Avoid close horse contact with other equine species of questionable health status.
- Do not interchange equipment, brushes and bandages between sick animals.
For more information on equine health, contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service, or the Office of the Kentucky State Veterinarian.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Subject Your Bulls to A Breeding Soundness Exam (BSE)
Producers searching for a cost efficient method to promote a successful breeding program may find breeding soundness examinations (BSE's) for bulls beneficial. The importance of the bull in a cattle breeding program often is underestimated. A cow is responsible for half the genetic material in only one calf each year, while the bull is responsible for half the genetic material in 20-50 calves. The bull's ability to locate cows in estrus and breed them is clearly vital to a successful breeding program.
For the breeding soundness evaluation to be successful, bulls should be evaluated 30 to 60 days before the start of breeding. It is important to allow sufficient time to replace questionable bulls. A BSE is administered by a veterinarian and includes a physical examination (feet, elgs, eyes, teeth, flesh cover, for sperm cell motility and normality.
The physical examination studies overall appearance. Body condition score is one factor to evaluate. Body condition can be affected by length of the breeding season, grazing and supplemental feeding conditions, number of cows the bull is expected to service and distance required to travel during breeding. Ideally, bulls should have enough fat cover at the start of breeding so their ribs appear smooth across their sides. A body condition score 6 (where 1=emaciated and 9=very obese) is the target body condition prior to the breeding season.
Sound feed and legs are very important because if bulls are unsound, their ability to ravel and mount for mating will be affected. The general health of the bull is critical since sick, aged and injured bulls are less likely to mate and usually have lower semen quality. Also, any illness that elevates body temperature two degrees for 48 straight hours can render a bull totally infertile for about 60 days. Producers should be aware of any incidence of foot rot, pink eye, or respiratory distress that could elevate body temperature.
Any bull meeting all minimum standards for the physical exam, scrotal size and semen quality will be classed as a "satisfactory" potential breeder. Bulls that fail any minimum standard will be given a rating of "classification deferred."
This rating indicates that the bull will need another test to confirm status. Mature bulls should be retested after six weeks. Mature bulls will be classified as unsatisfactory potential breeders if they fail subsequent tests. Young bulls that are just reaching puberty may be rated as "classification deferred," and then later meet all of the minimum standards. Therefore caution should be exercised when making culling decisions based on just one breeding soundness exam.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Poison Hemlock: A Growing Concern in Kentucky
Poison hemlock (Conium maculatum) has been increasing in Kentucky during the past several years. Although this plant was often seen along roadways, abandoned lots, fencerows, and other non-cropland sites, in more recent years, it has expanded out into grazed pasture lands and hay fields. The concern not only stems from its invasive nature, but the fact that it is one of the most toxic plants in the world. Throughout history, the toxicity of poison hemlock is well known for accidental deaths of humans and other animals. The death of Socrates in 329 b.c. is perhaps the most well known case involving the death of a human.
Poison hemlock is known to be a native of Europe and was introduced into the United States as an ornamental in the 1800's. Since that time this aggressive plant has been extremely successful in distributing itself throughout most of North America. It is now widespread throughout most counties in Kentucky. Although poison hemlock is often associated with areas that have moist soil conditions, it can also survive in dry sites.
Description-Poison hemlock is classified as a biennial that reproduces only by seed. It is capable, however, of completing its lifecycle as a winter annual in Kentucky if it germinates early during the fall months. Flowers and new seed are typically produced in late May and June. Although plants emerge as a cluster of leaves that form a large rosette, poison hemlock is most noticeable at this stage of growth in early spring with its parsley-like leaves which are highly dissected or fern-like. The individual leaves are shiny green and triangular in appearance. As that plant begins to send up flower stalks, the leaves are alternately arranged on the main stem. Each individual leaf is pinnately compound with several pairs of leaflets that appear along opposite sides of the main petiole. As the plant matures, poison hemlock can grow upwards to about 6 to 8 feet tall. At maturity the plant is erect, often with multi-branched stems, and forming a deep taproot. Poison hemlock has hollow stems which are smooth with purple spots randomly seen along the lower stem that help distinguish it from other plants similar in appearance. The flowers, when mature, are white and form a series of compound umbels (an umbrella-shaped cluster of small flowers) at the end of each terminal stalk.
Toxicity-All classes of livestock are known to be affected by poison hemlock. Cattle, horses, and goats are considered to be the most susceptible domestic animals although other animals can be affected as well. Symptoms of poisoning can occur rapidly anywhere within 30 minutes to 2 hours depending on the animal, quantity consumed, and other factors. Initial symptoms can include nervousness, trembling, muscular weakness and loss of coordination, dilation of pupils, coma, and eventually death from respiratory paralysis. Lethal doses for cattle are considered to be in the range of 0.2 to 0.5% of the animal's bodyweight. Poison hemlock is also known to cause fetal deformation when pregnant animals consume the plant.
Fortunately most animals tend to avoid grazing poison hemlock if other forage is readily available. However, animals may be more prone to consume green plants during the late winter and early spring when other forage species are more limited. All parts of the plant, including the seeds, are considered to contain the toxic principles (coniine and coniceine). Toxicity may be somewhat reduced in dried plants, but the potential for toxicity still exists, particularly when a sufficient quantity is consumed in dried hay. Therefore, extreme caution should be considered before feeding animals hay known to contain poison hemlock.
Control-the principle control strategy for poison hemlock is to prevent seed production which can be a challenge since a fully mature plant is capable of producing 35,000-40,000 new seeds. It is too late to utilize herbicide control methods after plants have produced flowers. Therefore, mechanical control efforts ( if feasible) such as mowing or cutting down individual plants should be initiated just before peak flower production to avoid or reduce the amount of new seed being produced. Make note of areas heavily infested with poison hemlock this spring and begin to look for emergence of new plants in the fall. During the late fall (November) or early spring (March) is the best time of year for herbicide treatment. In grass pastures and hayfields herbicide products containing 2,4-D can be effective when applied to young, actively growing plants in the rosette stage of growth. Spot treatments with products containing 2,4-D, triclopyr, or glyphosate can also be used depending on the location.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Controlling White Grubs in Kentucky Turfgrass
White grubs are the worst insect pests of bluegrass lawns in Kentucky. They are less damaging to fescue than other grass species. Grubs are stout, whitish C-shaped and have brownish heads. They are the immature stage of certain beetles, including masked chafers and the Japanese beetle.
White grubs chew off grass roots, weakening the turf by preventing water uptake and causing the turf to die in irregular patches. Heavily grub-damaged sod is not well anchored, and you can lift it up like a carpet. Grub damage typically shows up in late summer and fall but several of the treatment options are also preventative; however, you have to apply them before damage appears. In addition to root injury, moles, skinks, raccoons or birds may cause additional damage by ripping up the turf to get to a meal of grubs.
Water management is the key way of reducing the potential for white grub damage to turf. You should avoid frequent, shallow irrigations early in the summer. When you water longer at less frequent intervals it will promote deeper root growth. Irrigation in June and July may attract egg-laying beetles to the turf and increase egg survival. You should avoid watering during this time. In contrast, adequate soil moisture in August and September, when grubs are actively feeding, can help hide root injury and promote tolerance and recovery.
Most of the grub control products on the market are preventative treatments, so you apply them before damage appears. Preventative treatments are more likely to give you a return on your investment if you have chronic grub damage or if you see increased Japanese beetle activity during the summer. Preventative insecticides work best against newly hatched grubs, so if you apply them in mid-June to late-July, the residues will be there when you need them most.
If you don't want to treat for white grubs unless you see damage, there are some "rescue" treatments you can apply in late summer. You must watch for signs of water stress-then cut some flaps in the turf in those areas to check for grubs. You can use products that say "24-hour grub control" in mid-August to control infestations. Water your lawn thoroughly after applying any grub treatment to move the insecticide to where the grubs are feeding.
For more information on grub-control, contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service or check out the UK Entomology Web site about white grub control at http://www.ca.uky.edu/entomology.entfacts.ent10.asp
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Controlling Corn Earworm in Sweet Corn
One of the most potentially damaging problems facing sweet corn producers is controlling insects that feed on the ear. During the summer months, sweet corn producers need to watch for corn earworm.
Corn earworm is potentially the greatest threat to sweet corn production in Kentucky. Because it feeds directly on the ear, is difficult to control, and is common in high numbers at the end of the season, most insecticides used on sweet corn target this pest. Once earworm becomes established within the ear, control is impossible. Earworms spend a relatively short period of their life feeding in a site that can receive an adequate insecticide application. An effective program, especially on late-season corn, is necessary to ensure that damaged ears are kept to a minimum.
Currently, the primary insecticides used for corn earworm control in sweet corn belong to the pyrethroid class. There is growing concern that corn earworm in some regions of the Midwest has developed resistance to this class of insecticides. Some field failures have been reported.
Earworms vary in color, but they have a brown head without markings and numerous microscopic spines covering their body. Corn earworms are moderately hairy larvae that vary from yellow, to green, to red to brownish black. They may be found feeding in the ear tips following silking. The larvae are cannibalistic, rarely is there more than one per ear or whorl.
You can start a preventive program against corn earworms when 10 percent of the ears are silked. Repeat sprays at three-to-five day intervals until 90 percent of the silks have wilted. This strategy should give a high percentage of worm-free ears during early and midseason. Control is more difficult late in the season. Even shortening spray intervals may produce only 90 percent clean ears.
For more information on sweet corn pest control, contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service or check out the UK Entomology Web site about corn earworm control at: http://www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef302,asp.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Maintaining Farm Ponds
Ponds are a critical part of many farms in Kentucky and proper maintenance can ensure they will perform well for many years after construction.
Constructing ponds in the appropriate sites is the first step to ensuring a useful pond. A good supply of clean drinking water for livestock must be located within an adequate forage area to produce healthy animals. The volume of water required for livestock depends on the size of the animal, size of the herd and amount of time the water supply will be in use.
Most livestock ponds should be entirely fenced with gravity feed water supplied to a watering tank keeping animals out of the pond. This prevents soil erosion and protects stabilizing vegetation on the dam, spillway and pond banks. Keeping the animals out of ponds reduces the amount of sediment going into the pond from an eroding bank. It also improves water quality by reducing turbidity (muddiness) caused by eroded clay soils.
Nutrients provided from manure and fertilizer in the watershed will fertilize pond vegetation. However, aquatic plants will receive these nutrients directly where the livestock are allowed to wade into ponds. A poorly managed pond will fill quickly with debris and sediment due to increased loading of organic matter from manure and decaying aquatic plants, combined with erosion. These can reduce the life of a pond and pollute the water possibly contributing to poor animal health.
Many farm ponds in Kentucky serve the dual purpose of a place to relax and catch a few fish or swim. They also may be used for irrigation or rural fire control. Managing ponds for multiple purposes can be difficult. Pond volume, watershed size and number of animals kept in the watershed, will affect nutrient run-off into the pond. When properly applied, to the watershed, little of the nitrogen and phosphorus contained in inorganic fertilizers should be lost in runoff into the pond.
Fish populations may benefit from the minimal nutrient runoff of well managed pastures. However, excessive nutrients from livestock waste will create water quality problems. Aquatic plants and algae will thrive on excessive nutrients and may become difficult to control.
The weedy appearance can be unattractive as well as cause largemouth bass to have a more difficult time preying on bluegill. This may result in an overpopulation of bluegill. Chemical controls can be time consuming and costly and in some instances, may not be legal, safe or practical in livestock watering ponds.
Ponds used for fishing must be stocked properly, limed and harvested correctly. For Kentuckians interested in maintaining fish ponds, a monthly management calendar is available from http://ces.ca.uky.edu/westkentuckyaquaculture. Before using any fertilizers or chemicals, be sure to check that they are safe for livestock if the pond is serving this dual purpose.
Livestock ponds less than ½ acre in surface area may provide little opportunity for managing sport fish populations due to their small size, and possible water quality problems. If a pond is constructed in acid soils it should be limed before filling. The pond lime requirement would be similar to the amount of lime used to raise the soil pH to that used for planting alfalfa. Fulfilling the soil's lime requirements is especially important before beginning a pond fertilization program.
Weed control is an essential part of pond management. Preventive measures include proper design. Banks should be sloped steeply so that very little water is less than two to three feet deep. To help prevent serious weed infestations you can do the following things:
- Most waters in Kentucky are sufficiently rich in plankton and other food organisms to support large fish without the need for supplemental fertilization.
- Maintain a good sod and grass cover around your pond. This will help prevent runoff and erosion. Do not fertilize the turf directly around the pond.
- If the water is used for livestock, fence the pond and water the animals from a stock tank below the dam and outside the fence. Animals will increase turbidity and fertility and erode the banks. Do not allow livestock access to a pond unless a gravity flow tank cannot be installed. In this case, fence the pond to allow limited access to a few locations around the shoreline. Consider providing a source of shade in pastures so animals can avoid extreme heat.
- Check septic tanks for possible leaching into the pond. Locate new septic drainage fields so that the nutrient-rich effluent will not reach your pond.
- Do not permit runoff from chicken coops, feedlots and other areas to enter your pond. If this kind of runoff is occurring upstream from your pond, you should check with your county Board of Health to see if anything can be done about it.
If you have a weed problem mechanical controls can be used. Mechanical controls include hand removal, dredging of shallow pond areas or winter draw down may be effective in freezing and killing shoreline vegetation. Using rakes with ropes attached can work for removing some floating plants. But these methods can be impractical or uneconomical.
A biological control that can be used is triploid grass carp to control soft-stemmed vascular plants and branched algae. These fish are plant eaters and can help control pond vegetation. They need to be stocked at a rate of 5 to 20 fish or more per surface acre of water depending on the severity of the plant problem.
Chemical control methods also can be used. Weed identification is essential in determining which herbicide to use. When used properly, aquatic herbicides are effective in controlling vegetation without harming fish. There may be restrictions on water usage for a period of time after treating with a particular herbicide. Always check the herbicide label for possible restrictions.
For more information on pond construction and maintenance, contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Why Have a Calving Season?
It's getting later in the summer and folks need to start considering pulling their bulls. One of the most asked questions in the cattle industry in the Southern United States: If I "pull" the bulls out for part of the year, won't I lost an opportunity to get a few calves? Should I leave the bull out with cows year-round?
Here is the answer: A research anaylsis of 394 ranch observations from the Texas, Oklahoma, and New Mexico SPA (standardized performance analysis) data set provided insight into the age old argument about "leaving the bull out" or having a defined breeding season. Oklahoma State University and Texas A&M Agricultural Economists (parker, et al) presented a paper at the 2004 Southern Association of Agricultural Scientists. They found a positive relationship between number of days of the breeding season and the production cost per hundredweight of calf weaned. Also, they reported a negative relationship between number of days of the breeding season and pounds of calf weaned per cow per year.
The data suggested that for each day the breeding season was lengthened, the annual cost of producing a hundred pounds of weaned calf increased by 4.7 cents and pounds of calf weaned per cow per year decreased by 0.158 pounds. The range of breeding seasons in the data set was from extremely short (less than one month) to 365 days or continuous presence of the bull. The trend lines that resulted from the analysis of the data give us an opportunity to evaluate the economic importance of a defined breeding season. The producer that leaves the bull out year-round (365 days) would sell 45.82 fewer pounds of calf per cow per year on the average than producers with a 75 day breeding season. That same producer would have $13.63 greater costs per hundredweight of weaned calf than the producer that used a 75 day breeding season. In this era of cost/price squeezes, a well-defined breeding and calving season provides a better opportunity to survive the volatility of cattle prices and input costs.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Select the Right Horse Feed
When choosing a commercial horse feed select a grain mix to provide needed nutrients not supplied by the forages. Your selection will depend on such factors as the type of forage being used and activity level of the horses being fed.
There are many grain mixes on the market today. To choose the appropriate feed for your horses, consider the minerals, vitamins and protein the animal needs and what portion of these nutrients will be supplied by the forage (hay or pasture) you are providing horses in your care.
Following these tips will help you select the right grain mix for your horses. Read the label to determine the correct amount of nutrients supplied by the feed. If you are feeding a mineral vitamin supplement in addition to forage and grain portions, avoid the philosophy that if a little is good, more is better. The nutrient levels in supplements are formulated based on the amount being fed. Providing more than the directions suggest may lead to over supplementation. Conversely, feeding less may not provide the level of nutrients a horse requires.
Select grain mixes or supplements to meet a specific need. Do not duplicate the feeding programs of other horse owners unless you understand why they are using the feeds as well as the total feeding program for their horses.
The bottom line is to read the labels on all feeds for your horses and then make selections based on what nutrients the horses require.
Contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service for more information on nutrition and other equine management practices.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Get the Most From Your Wood-Burning Dollars
Wood may rarely be used as a primary heat source today, but many homeowners continue to use fireplaces and wood-burning stoves to help reduce their use of other energy sources.
Wood can provide an economical and enjoyable way to heat your home, and it pays to know a thing or two about purchasing and using this natural resource.
The first question often asked is what kind of wood to buy. Knowing if a species is a high or low density wood can have a big impact on the amount needed. Low density woods such as yellow poplar, silver and red maples, and buckeye, contain a greater amount of air between the cell walls. High density species such as oak, black locust, hickory, ash and beech produce more heat per unit volume because they contain more wood and less air in their cellular structures. Moisture contents being equal, the more economical purchase will be high-density woods that generate more heat.
Another important factor to evaluate is how well the wood was seasoned. Wood comes from living plants which means they contain water. The moisture in unseasoned wood can account for up to 50 percent of its weight. Energy generated from burning wet wood goes toward evaporating the moisture within the wood itself and can greatly diminish its heat producing capacity. Seasoned wood has been allowed to air dry for sic to 12 months which removes the largest percentage of water. Well-seasoned firewood is gray in color. It has splits in the ends of the logs and looks weathered. Round logs split into smaller sections yield more surface area and speed the drying process.
Knowledge of how firewood is measured is a third important piece of information to learn in order to get the most from your wood-burning dollars. Terms used for describing a volume of wood include cord, face cord, fireplace cord and rick. The size and shape of individual logs and how carefully they are stacked influences the actual volume regardless of the weight purchased. These terms are open for interpretation, and the best buy is a mutual agreement between the consumer and the seller. The purchase price also may include splitting, delivery and stacking.
Finally, if you plan to transport your purchased firewood, you need to estimate the weight of the load. Common high density species used for fuel wood, such as oak and hickory are extremely heavy per unit volume. Weights equaling 4,500 pounds can be quickly reached without using the full capacity of the truck or trailed used to transport the load.
The best firewood produces the greatest heat value at the lowest cost. For more information about firewood and fireplace and heating stove safety, contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service,
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Keeping Bees in Kentucky
Honey bees serve a vital role by pollinating fruits, vegetables, nuts and seed crops. Livestock, including horses and cattle, consume bee-pollinated crops such as alfalfa. Up to one-third of the food we consume depends in some way on honey bees. You can also raise these beneficial insects for the fresh honey and wax they produce. Hives located and managed on farm property help pollinate crops that keep Kentucky agriculture thriving. Some beekeepers raise bees simply as a fun family activity or hobby.
In recent years, reports of disappearing pollinators have fueled a growing interest in beekeeping. The steady increase in the number bee schools each year and the Kentuckians attending them is evidence of that. Beekeeping supply companies have reported an increase in sales. The number of beekeeping associations in Kentucky has doubled over the past ten years.
Whether you are a veteran beekeeper or a beginner eager to get started, bee schools offer you a wealth of information on the subject. Kentucky State University and the Kentucky Department of Agriculture team up each winter and spring to offer bee schools in several different locations around the state. These daylong educational workshops offer sessions for beginning beekeepers; comprehensive step-by-step programs that include everything from where to buy equipment to tips on harvesting your first honey crop. Experts from North Carolina State University and University of Georgia will address current issues and deliver talks on a variety of specialized subjects at the Frankfort and Bullitt County events.
The series of bee schools kicks off on January 23 with the Eastern Kentucky Beekeeping School in Hazard. Additional schools are scheduled in Scottsville, Whitley City, Morehead, Henderson, Bullitt County and Graves County. The largest event is the Bluegrass Beekeeping School at KSU in Frankfort on March 13, which drew nearly 400 beekeepers and six vendors last year. For a complete list of dates, log onto the Kentucky State Apiarist website at http://www.kyagr.com/statevet.bees. For more information about beekeeping, contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Reduce Humidity for Greenhouse Health
Humidity and condensation in the greenhouse present big challenges especially during winter when moisture tends to build up on roofs and side-walls. Large numbers of plants grown in fairly crowded conditions produce even more moisture which adds to an inviting environment for plant pathogens like fungi and bacteria.
Relative humidity greater than 90-percent slows the drying of foliage and increases the amount of time condensation and overnight dew remain on plants. High humidity also favors plant diseases that thrive on warm air, such as powdery mildew.
Preventive measures can help reduce the threat of diseases on greenhouse-grown vegetables and ornamentals. Careful management of irrigation practices is a good way to cut back on disease potential. Saturated soils and potting mix promote a number of root-rotting fungi, so avoid over-watering and use pots and trays with good drainage systems. Fungi and bacteria thrive on wet leaves and foliage. Prevent this by using trickle irrigation in place of overhead watering systems. If you must water from the top, water early in the day. Foliage dries more quickly during peak daytime hours of light and warmth.
Adequate ventilation and space between plants allows for better air movement which speeds the drying process. Re-circulating fans, vents, and raised benches all stimulate air circulation throughout the greenhouse. Introduce dry air a couple of times during the day by opening doors or vents for a few minutes in the morning and late afternoon. This helps flush out excess humid air. Cover open water containers to prevent evaporation into the greenhouse. Moisture control is a strong ally in the fight against plant diseases.
For more information contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service. Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Sap beetles are attracted to odors of fermenting plant sap and can be serious pests of strawberries. Damage may appear as small holes in the bottom of the berry, or as large sections devoured from the side. Beetles may spread rot-causing disease organisms from berry to berry. Sap beetle species range from black to brown, but flattened and broadly oval with short wing covers.
The best management practice for sap beetles is sanitation. Keep fields as clean of ripe fruit as possible through timely removal of damaged, diseases, and overripe fruits. Problems often first occur after a rainy period during harvest, when there may be a buildup of overripe fruit. Sprays for sap beetles are available but difficult to use because they are applied to a crop that is ready for harvest. Therefore, selecting an insecticide with a short harvest interval is essential. Sprays should be applied only if absolutely necessary. Label directions should be read and followed carefully.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Tips for Managing Diseases of Tobacco Transplants
The float bed system is a convenient and efficient way to produce tobacco transplants. One drawback to this method is the potential for significant disease development. Large numbers of plants packed into a small, water-filled area create conditions in which many diseases thrive.
Once established, problems in float-bed systems can be difficult to eradicate or bring under control. So, it is best to keep them from gaining a foothold in your transplant bed. Prevention is the best solution for keeping float-bed diseases in check. Here are some tips to help you stay ahead of tobacco-transplant diseases:
1. Produce your own plants or buy from a Kentucky source if possible. Growers who use the plug-and-transfer system should consider buying plugs grown in or north of Kentucky to avoid infections of blue mold, which is more prevalent in the South.
2. Take care not to introduce pathogens into the float system. Keep out field soil, which can harbor pathogens that cause root and stem rots. For the same reason, you shouldn’t use water from ponds or creeks to fill float beds. Always use city or well water.
3. Use clean, sanitized trays for seed. Reused trays pose a risk of contamination. Dip or spray them with a solution of one part bleach to 9 parts water. Cover and allow them to stand overnight. Follow up with a good rinse to remove the bleach residue. You should replace or heat treat with steam trays older than three or four years.
4. Once your plants are up and growing, keep them as stress-free as possible. Avoid temperature extremes and keep fertilizer levels within recommended ranges. Too much fertilizer is equally as harmful as too little and can increase susceptibility to diseases in general.
5. Use side vents and fans to maintain good air movement and keep the area surrounding the float bed weed-free. Good air flow promotes rapid drying of foliage which helps to eliminate favorable conditions for disease.
6. Consider a regular fungicide program to control root and leaf diseases. Fungicides are inexpensive insurance considering the value of your transplants.
Disease free transplants pay dividends down the road because they are vigorous and less prone to attack by pathogens in the field. Proper management of diseases in the float system insures that your tobacco crop gets off to a good start.
For more information contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
UK Entomologists to Look for New Stink Bugs
When the 2010 growing season begins, Ric Bessin and Doug Johnson, entomologists in the University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, will be on the lookout for the state’s first-ever appearance of three species of stink bugs.
The brown marmorated, red-banded and bean plastid stink bugs are invasive, not native, and potential pests of soybeans. Some of them can also be pests of fruits and vegetables and home nuisances. While these stink bugs have not been found in Kentucky, they are in neighboring states.
While we haven’t seen them yet, it’s important to know when and where they are, so we can get a handle on them if they do appear in the state. If you find a bug that emits a bad odor or is unfamiliar in your plants or home, you should send it to your county agent to get it identified.
The brown marmorated stink bug is native to Asia and arrived in the United States in packing material. It is a major pest of fruits and vegetables. In addition, it invades homes in the fall and emits a foul odor that is a nuisance for homeowners. It has been a major structural pest problem on the East Coast.
The red-banded stink bug has been found as close as the Missouri counties across the Mississippi River from Kentucky. It is native to South America and is a known pest of soybeans in Louisiana. It is also in Arkansas and Tennessee.
The bug is attracted to soybean blooms and can damage pods, much like the green, brown and southern green stink bugs. Growers should scout their fields for this pest in mid-summer.
The red-banded stink bug is very difficult to control with conventional insecticides. In Louisiana, it requires three insecticide treatments to control. This can become very expensive for farmers.
Mostly green with red across its back, the red-banded stink bug is easily confused with the red shoulder stink bug that is already in Kentucky. If growers find a bug like this, they should send it to their county agent because they won't be able to tell the two apart.
The bean plastid stink bug was first found in northeast Georgia in 2009. A native of East Asia, the bug is a known pest of all legume plants there. However, it has yet to be a pest of soybeans in Georgia. Like the brown marmorated stink bugs, they emit a foul odor and can invade homes.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Variegated Cutworms often the First Float Bed Insect Pest
Variegated cutworm moths can fly as early as mid-to-late March and may enter greenhouses to lay eggs on developing seedlings. A female moth lays clusters of about 60 eggs on surfaces ranging from stems or leaves of low-growing plants to building walls. The dark, cut-worm like larvae feed for about 4 weeks and are about 1.5 inches long when full grown. Since eggs are laid in masses, damage to float plants occurs in distinct pockets on to several adjacent trays. The cutworms feed at night or overcast days and hide in the media during the day. Scan trays regularly for the first signs of empty cells that may indicate that cutworms are active. Look for notches in leaves as a sign of feeding. Orthene can be used as a foliar spray for control.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Protecting Pollinators
Insects pollinate a large percentage of food crops grown in the U.S. and all over the world. Many different species of pollinators exist, but the insect best equipped for this job is the honey bee. Honey bees are exceptionally efficient at collecting and transferring pollen among the flowers of a particular crop. In a practice known as “flower fidelity” groups of foraging bees will visit just one type of flower, collecting and storing pollen in baskets located on their legs. As the bees fly from flower to flower, pollen particles are transformed between male and female parts triggering the plant’s reproduction cycle which results in a fruit or vegetable that may eventually find its way to a dinner table.
A growing concern for U.S. agricultural producers is the continuing decline of honey bee populations. According to the National Agricultural Statistics Service, the number of colonies in Kentucky has dropped dramatically over the last century from 152,900 in 1909 to just 5,000 in 2009.
Many studies are underway to try to pinpoint the cause for this decline, and so far several factors have emerged as detrimental to honey bee health. One of these involves the use of pesticides and insecticides which can produce harmful effects in other pollinators, too.
Approximately 4,000 species of native or wild bees assist the honey bee in making a large contribution to the pollination task. They include everything from large bumblebees to tiny sweat bees. There are miner bees, carpenter bees, mason bees, plaster bees and orchard bees-all named for the types of nests they build. Butterflies and some flies also pollinate certain plants.
You can help promote and protect insect pollinators by following a few simple rules. Never spray plants with insecticides when the plants are actively blooming. If chemical applications are necessary, strive for infrequent use and choose selective products with minimal impact on natural resources, especially bees.
Promote pollinators and invite them into your environment by planting a diverse landscape with flowers, trees and other greenery that bloom in succession from spring into fall.
For more information about insects found in your landscape and garden, contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Update on Tobacco Float Bed Diseases
Above-normal temperatures have prevailed from the end of March through the first two weeks of April, and we’ve been pretty dry as well. With the increased heat, we’d naturally worry a little about Pythium becoming active on roots of tobacco, and the risk from bacterial soil rot (black leg) would be elevated as well. The last things that we’d think would be a problem would be target spot and collar rot, yet both diseases are starting to crop up around various parts of the state. The appearance of these diseases more-or-less coincides with the passing of a cold front around April 16, when we also saw a little cloudy and rainy weather. With the cooler temperatures, and rain forecasted we should expect a fair number of cases of target spot to crop up.
BACKGROUND. Collar rot shows up in float beds in the spring, when resting structures (sclerotia) located outside the float system geminate produce cup-shaped fruiting bodies called apothecia. Apothecia then produce spores (ascospores) that are dispersed on wind currents. When ascospores land on susceptible tissue, they germinate if sufficient moisture is present. Long periods of leaf wetness (greater than 16 hours) are required for this process. Germinated ascospores produce hyphae (fungal “threads”) that penetrate tissue and begin the infection process.
SYMPTOMS. The first symptoms of collar rot are small, dark green, water-soaked lesions that appear at the bases of stems. In most cases, this disease becomes apparent when clusters of infected transplants collapse, leaving open holes in the plant canopy. These clusters, or “foci”, are usually grapefruit-sized (4-6” in diameter). Stems of affected seedlings generally show a wet necrosis that is amber-to-brown in color, beginning at the base of the plant and extending upward. Signs of the causal agent Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, may present on symptomatic plants or on debris in float trays. These signs include a white, cottony mycelium (fungal mass), present if humidity is high, and irregularly shaped, black sclerotia. Sclerotia resemble seeds or rodent droppings and are the primary survival structure of S. sclerotiorum and are the primary source of inoculums for outbreaks in subsequent years.
Plants that are 5-7 weeks old are most susceptible to collar rot. We often see the first cases shortly after plants are first clipped following a period of disease-favorable weather. Cool temperatures (60 to 75 degrees F), high humidity, and overcast conditions, like those that have been common in Kentucky for the past week, are ideal for development of this disease. It’s also important to note that S.sclerotiorum is an efficient colonizer of dead plant matter and weakened or injured tissue, and these are usually the first to be attacked. The fungus will then move from these areas to nearby healthy plants as long as cool temperatures and high humidity prevail. This is one of the ways that secondary spread of the collar rot pathogen takes place, since S.sclerotiorum does not produce airborne spores on infected tissue. The other way in which secondary spread can occur is through dispersal of infected tissue-a possible event when infected plants are clipped.
MANAGEMENT. There are no fungicides labeled for control of Sclerotinia collar rot on tobacco transplants, making this a difficult disease to manage. Sound management practices are the only options that a grower can use to fight collar rot. Adequate ventilation and air circulation are primary concerns, since these limit the duration of leaf and stem wetness. Growers should manage temperatures to promote healthy plants and minimize injury. The latter is important because injured tissues are more susceptible to S. sclerotiorum. Fertility should be kept at around 100 ppm (N); excessive levels of N can lead to a lush, dense canopy that will take longer to dry and will be more susceptible to attack by the collar rot pathogen. Plant debris should not be allowed to build up in transplant trays or remain in contact with seedlings. Clip seedlings at a low blade speed with a well-sharpened, high-vacuum mower to ensure complete removal of leaf pieces in the least injurious way possible. Frequent clippings will reduce the amount of tissue that must be removed by the mower and will cause less plant injury and lead to less leaf material left on the transplants. Clippings and diseased plants should be discarded a minimum of 100 yards from the transplant facility, or buried. Home gardens should not be planted near transplant facilities, and keep a weed-free zone around float beds. Over 300 species of plants, including many weeds, are hosts to S.sclerotiorum, making many weeds potential hosts for this pathogen.
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Some Insects to Expect After High Water
Non-biting midges and gnats probably will be abundant over the next 2 to 3 weeks. Small gnats, ranging from pale, green to larger, darker species, often are very abundant after excess rainfall and high water. They can be a nuisance and may cause concern but they do not bite and are not harmful. Typically, the gnats do not feed on anything and live for just a few days. They can be controlled by direct sprays of an aerosol insecticide containing pyrethrins if necessary. Gnats and midges breed in low areas that are slow to drain and dry.
Springtails are small, wingless insects that are very abundant in moist leaf litter or soils with high levels of organic matter. They come in a range of colors and hop around like tiny fleas. Springtails typically feed on decaying plant material or fungi that grow in humid areas. They can enter homes from around the foundation or openings to crawlspaces. In some cases, springtails can live for some time in damp areas of houses and buildings that meet their moisture needs.
Springtails are not harmful but their presence in an area indicates moist conditions that may come from things such as water leaks or condensation from sweaty pipes. Correcting these problems will end the infestation and the potential for more serious water or mold damage in a structure. Using a fan or dehumidifier to increase ventilation and to provide a drying effect in the home can be very effective as can repair of plumbing leaks and dripping pipes. These actions will eliminate the moisture that springtails need for food and survival.
Aerosol insecticides that are labeled for indoor insect control can be used to reduce springtails temporarily but this does not correct the moisture or humidity problems that allow the insects to thrive. Outside the home, remove excessive mulch, moist leaves, prune shrubbery and ground cove, and eliminate low, moist areas around the house foundation to permit proper air circulation. Remove wet, moldy wood or other moldy items.
Water collected in most any container can become a source of house mosquitoes in just a few days. Empty water from barrels, buckets, discarded tires, cans and other vessels as soon as possible. Also, check clogged gutters and flat roots which have poor drainage.
Bury or dispose of organic matter animal carcasses in the best manner practical. Several species of flies, such as blow flies, house flies, and stable flies can begin to use these materials for breeding sites posing a nuisance and public health threat over the next few weeks.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Use Excess Balage for Forage
Kentucky farmers have good reasons to bale excess forage crops for balage (silage). Producing silage enables producers to harvest excess forages in a timely manner, takes less time than hay, generates a higher-quality feed product, and reduces the likelihood of weather-related harvesting delays and the resulting quality deterioration.
Grasses dominate the seven million acres of pastures and hayfields serving animal-based agriculture in Kentucky. Two thirds of cool-season grass growth occurs by early July. So this is a good time to consider the advantages of ensiling excess forages.
Producing balage takes less time than hay because balage can be stored at a moisture content of 40 to 60 percent, compared to hay, which requires 18 to 20 percent moisture. This reduces curing time by more than 50 percent over haymaking. Thus, the more timely harvest for balage enables producers to cut grasses at the most optimum maturity stage for the type of livestock being fed.
The stage of maturity at harvest is the single most important factor affecting forage quality, and the one on which producers can make the most progress. Protein content, digestibility and acceptability to livestock decrease as forages mature from the leafy to the seed stage, while fiber and lignin content increase.
For example, grasses may contain more than 30 percent protein at the immature stage, but drop to less than eight percent protein at maturity. Digestibility also improves with quality. Animals may digest 80 to 90 percent of leafy grasses, but only 50 percent or less of mature material. Forages must be palatable for animals to consumer sufficient amounts to meet their daily nutritional needs. Research has shown that animals tend to eat more of the better quality forages.
Ensiling also saves at least 20 percent of leaves typically lost during haymaking. In addition to providing an excellent feed, balage helps minimize weather damage. When harvesting for hay, producers typically have to wait one or two weeks, sometimes more, beyond the optimum maturity stage to avoid rain damage on the crop. However with balage, concern about wet conditions is about the only thing that would keep producers out of the field.
Well-preserved balage has less quality loss during storage compared with hay left outside. Research shows that a round bale silage system, when properly done, has storage losses consistently below five percent of the initial crop dry matter. This compares with typical hay roll losses of about 25 percent when stored on the ground outside without covers.
Other advantages of balage are reduced capital investment compared to conventional silage and no specialized equipment requirements.
The following suggestions will increase success with balage: produce as high a quality forage as possible; harvest at an early stage of maturity; wrap between 40 and 60 percent moisture; make dense, tight bales; wrap soon after bailing with four to six layers of good-quality plastic; use natural fiber or plastic twine; store bales in a convenient location on a well-drained site; patch holes with ultraviolet-protected plastic tape, and use soon after removing the plastic.
For more information, contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Coopertive Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Arthropod-Induced Galls Becoming Evident
Leaf galls often are green early, then change to red and eventually black before the insect or mite emerges. Some galls are irregular plant growths which are stimulated by the reaction between plant hormones and powerful growth regulating chemicals produced by some insects or mites. Galls may occur on leaves, bark, flowers, buds, acorns, or roots. Leaf and twig galls are most noticeable. The inhabitant gains its nutrients from the inner gall tissue. Galls also provide some protection from natural enemies and insecticide sprays. Important details of the life cycles of many gall-makers are not known so specific recommendations to time control measures most effectively are not available.
Gall makers must attack at a particular time in the year to be successful. Otherwise, they may not be able to stimulate the plant to produce the tissue which forms the gall. Generally, initiation of leaf galls occurs around “bud break” or as new leaves begin to unfold in the spring.
Galls are becoming evident on many trees now, especially oaks. Heavily galled leaves may drop prematurely but this generally does not affect the health of established trees.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Controlling Weeds in the Vegetable Garden
Home gardens look forward to that first ripe tomato or ear of corn picked from their own carefully tended gardens. But after some vigorous hoeing on a hot humid day, some may be asking themselves if it is all worth it.
Weeds compete with crop plants for water, nutrients and sunlight. Some weeds, like quackgrass, can chemically inhibit vegetable plant growth. Others host insect pests and pathogens. All of these result in fewer fresh vegetables for your table.
There are some preventive practices that effectively combat weeds. Frequent hoeing or rototilling on a weekly basis helps eliminate weeds when they are small and easily removed. By planting rows a little closer, vegetable crops provide more shade which also helps to reduce weed pressure. After harvesting a crop, plant another in its place to continue using the space.
Mulching works very well in the home garden. Use organic material such as grass clippings, leaves or straw to eliminate weed growth and build up organic matter to make he soil more fertile and friable. Do not use grass clippings from a lawn that was freshly treated with the herbicide 2,4-D. Treated clippings can cause twisting of the vegetable plants and can even kill some sensitive vegetable crops. Be careful about the kind of organic material you use. Hay can introduce a considerable load of weed seeds into your garden.
Black plastic mulch is of specific benefit to certain vegetables including tomatoes, eggplants, peppers and vine crops. In addition to shading out and eliminating weeds, plastic mulches conserve moisture and promote early crop growth by helping to heat up the soil in spring. Landscape fabric has the added advantage of being water permeable and can be used for multiple years; although it is more expensive than black plastic.
Most importantly, do everything possible to keep garden weeds from going to seed. One red root pigweed plant can produce 100,000 seeds that can continue to germinate over the next 15 to 20 years.
For more information about how to get the most from your home vegetable garden, contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Vegetable Growers Should be on Alert for Late Blight
Late blight was found on tomato plants in late May in Northern Kentucky. Since then, the disease has shown up on potato and tomato plants in Central Kentucky. A University of Kentucky plant pathologist said it’s critical for vegetable producers to scout their plants and take preventative measures to combat this disease.
Late blight is caused by a fungus-like organism. Symptoms include large, water-soaked blotches that turn into green-to-brown lesions on the leaves and stems of infected plants. The disease can quickly increase in severity and spread to other plants if given the right conditions of cool, wet weather. If left untreated, late blight can cause total crop loss.
In most years, we expect to see very little of this disease and only then at the end of summer. This marks the second year in a row that this devastating disease of tomatoes has appeared earlier than expected.
Regular fungicide applications are key to late blight prevention. Commercial growers and homeowners can use fungicides with chlorothalonil, maneb, mancozeb or fixed coppers to protect against late blight when disease pressure is low. Organic producers can use products with fixed copper. Fungicides should be applied every seven to 10 days when disease pressure is low and every four to five days if conditions are favorable for the disease to spread. If disease pressure increases or late blight is present, commercial growers can use fungicides specific for late blight control. A full list of these fungicides is available in the June 2 edition of Kentucky Pest News.
Growers with confirmed cases of late blight should destroy the infected plants and all surrounding plants because they could be infected by the disease too. Sunny, dry days are ideal for this because handling wet plants promotes the spread of the disease. Once the infected plants are destroyed, they should be buried. Any debris left lying around could cause additional infections.
Those who have questions about late blight or suspect the disease is present on their crops should contact their local office of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Mulches, Mushrooms and Molds
Mulching offers many benefits for landscaping in your yard and gardens. Some of these include retained moisture, weed control, improved drainage, lower soil temperature, erosion prevention and protection from mowers and trimmers. As they decompose, mulches also release minerals into the soil and leave behind humus which is good for plants.
Wet weather can cause mulch to produce some undesirable consequences. Gardeners most often spread mulch in spring and fall. The combination of seasonal rains and fresh woodchip or bark mulch can result in the proliferation of nuisance fungi on the mulch surface.
Some forms, like stinkhorns, bird’s nest fungus, earth stars, toadstools and slime molds are unattractive but fairly harmless. Other types, like the shotgun or artillery fungus are truly a nuisance. The artillery fungus shoots tiny masses of black spores onto nearby surfaces like home siding and cars. When fungus mycelium permeates a thick layer of dry mulch it can block water saturation and cause irrigation problems.
Hardwood mulches, especially when they are finely ground, contain a large amount of cellulose which decomposes rapidly and leads to nuisance fungi. Composting this type of mulch will result in the growth of competing bacteria and other molds that can inhibit the development of fungi.
Gardeners who want to avoid unsightly growths on their mulch can purchase composted mulch products. Mulches low in wood content and high in bark content are less vulnerable to fungi. Finely ground wood products should be avoided unless they are composted first. Fresh wood chips need to be wetted down and fertilized if they don’t contain fresh leaves. Compost this mixture for six weeks before applying to landscaping.
Mulch should be applied no more than 2 inches in depth and should be soaked immediately after application to enhance the colonization of beneficial bacterial. Avoid sour mulches with an odor.
They are highly acidic and can injure plants.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Damage to Oak Leaves
White oak foliage with distinctive but very different symptoms was evident last week. Leaf-mining was evident as thin, curving tracks that led to large blotches as the moth or fly larvae tunneled in leaf tissue.
Leaf miners live within the leaf, feeding on tissue and leaving blisters bordered by the upper and lower leaf surfaces. Heavily tunneled leaves develop brown splotches as the leaf tissue dries, heavily mined leaves may drop prematurely. Usually, tree health is not affected and natural enemies will reduce leafminer populations following outbreak years.
Lace bugs are small sap-feeding insects that live on the undersides on many trees and shrubs. Oak, sycamore, and azalea typically take on a bleached appearance as these small insects sit on the undersides of leaves and feed. A tiny white spot, the size of a pin prick, appears where the needle-like mouthpart was inserted. Scatter spots become larger as feeding continues, heavily damaged leaves may drop prematurely. The insects, their dark tarry droppings, or clusters of thin cylindrical eggs may be seen on lower surfaces of infested leaves. As with leafminer damage, healthy trees can tolerate the damage with little apparent hard.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Grazing Sudangrass, Pearl Millet, and Sorghum Hybrids
Most of the sudangrass and sorghum-sudan hybrids planted this spring will be ready to graze soon, but they contain a compound called prussic acid that is potentially poisonous. Prussic acid is nothing to fear, though, as long as you use a few precautions to avoid problems.
Most importantly, do not turn hungry animals into sudangrass or sorghum-sudan pastures. They may eat so rapidly that they could get a quick overdose of prussic acid.
Secondly, since the highest concentration of prussic acid is in new schools, let the grass get a little growth on it before grazing to help dilute out the prussic acid. Begin grazing sudangrass at about 18 inches in height. Since sorghum-sudan hybrids usually contain a little more prussic acid, wait until they are 20 to 24 inches tall before grazing. If you planted pearl millet these grazing precautions aren’t needed because it does not contain prussic acid. So let your animals graze pearl millet when it reaches 12 to 15 inches tall.
Next- summer annual grasses respond best to a simple, rotational grazing system. Divide fields into three or more smaller paddocks of a size that permits your animals to graze a paddock down to about eight or so inches of leafy stubble within 7 to 10 days. Repeat this procedure with all paddocks. If some grass gets too tall, either cut it for hay or rotate animals more quickly so grass doesn’t head out.
A well-planned start, a good rotation, and a little rain will give you good pasture from these grasses all the rest of the summer.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Farmers’ Market
Visit the Farmers’ Market located at the Bee Mart in Vanceburg. They are open Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday from 8:00-sell. Here is a great recipe to try this summer.
Fresh Corn Salad
5 ears of fresh corn
½ cup diced red onion
3 tablespoons cider vinegar
3 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
½ cup freshly chopped basil
Shuck and remove silks from corn. In a large pot of boiling water, cook the corn for 4 minutes. Drain. Cool by immersing in ice water. When corn has cooled, cut the kernels off the cob. Toss the kernels in a large bowl with the red onion. Combine vinegar, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Pour over corn and gently toss. Chill to allow flavors to blend. Just before serving, add fresh basil. Yield: 10, 2/3 cup servings. Nutritional Analysis: 70 calories, 5 g fat, 101 mg sodium, 10 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 1 g fiber.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Dividing Perennials
If your perennials aren’t putting on their usual show this spring, it may be time to dig and divide. Perennials need space, and once they become crowded, blooms can become smaller and infrequent. Dividing the plants to create more room usually restores their vigor.
Spring is a good time to divide many perennials. If you are unsure about the timing, here is a good rule of thumb. If the plant blooms in the spring, divide it after it blooms or in the fall. If the plant blooms in the summer or fall, divide it in the spring.
Perennials grow from underground structures like fleshy roots, rhizomes or bulbs. This is the part of the plant that needs to be divided. Dig up the plant, remove old leaves and shake off loose dirt to expose the underground parts. Gently pull or cut the plant apart into several sections making sure each section has some recent growth at the top. Use one section to replace the original plant and set it in so that the crown is just at soil level. You can use the remaining “new” plants created from your divisions to expand your landscaping or share with gardening friends and relatives.
A fun way to get the most from your extra perennials is to organize a plant exchange in your neighborhood, civic organization, workplace or school. Encourage participants to label their contributions and provide information such as whether the plants prefer full sun or partial shade. Not only will you get new acquisitions for your home landscape, but you may even make a new gardening friend.
For more information on horticultural topics, contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Hornworms on Tobacco
The second brood of tobacco hornworms can be very destructive. Eggs can be laid from early August through early September with the larvae feeding through mid-September. This creates the potential for lots of feeding damage from topping time until plants are taken to the barn.
One well-timed insecticide application may reduce feeding significantly but cannot protect tobacco if a lot of egg-laying occurs over a long period of time. It is a good idea to check tobacco about a week before harvest so that a “clean up” spray can be applied if necessary. Be sure to check the harvest interval on the product you use. Cutting before this interval has passed can mean insecticide residues above the legal tolerance level.
Planting Trees and Shrubs
Selecting the right varieties for the location and transplanting them in the fall gives trees and shrubs a head start on winter and helps them provide pleasure and beauty for years to come.
Now through November is the best time to transplant trees and shrubs. Ornamentals lose less moisture because fall days are shorter, outdoor temperatures are cooler and rainfall usually is adequate. These conditions also help retain soil moisture so plants can settle into their new location. Also, many of these plants are deciduous and lose their leaves in the fall so their demand for water is less.
Trees and shrubs also undergo internal changes that promote root growth and increase tolerance to winter weather. Leaf growth during the summer produced sugars that were moved into the roots, so amply energy is available to re-establish strong root systems after transplanting.
Woody ornamental root systems continue to grow at soil temperatures above 40 degrees, so planting in October and early November usually will give them six to seven weeks before soils reach this temperature. Evergreen species retain their leaves during the fall and winter, so it is best to plant them in early spring, or perhaps early fall so root systems will have adequate time to become re-established before plant water demand increases.
For best results, choose ornamentals that are hardy to the area. Avoid trees and shrubs that are adapted to zone six or above because they are only marginally hardy in Kentucky. Planting as assortment of shrubs and trees will slow down the spread of disease and insect problems.
It is important to select ornamentals that are adaptable to environmental and soil conditions of the site. Talk to a professional if you are not familiar with the growing requirements for a particular shrub or tree or have questions about how to choose vigorous, healthy plant materials.
Several ornamentals can be successfully planted in early to late fall. They include coffee tree, crabapple, elm (disease-resistant varieties only), ginkgo, honey locust, linden, sugar maple, pagoda tree and serviceberry. It is best to wait until after leaf drop later in the fall to plant birch, flowering dogwood, oak, red maple, sweetgum and tulip poplar.
Inadequate moisture during dry periods is the primary threat to transplant survival. Be sure to thoroughly soak the ground after transplanting. Frequently check newly-planted specimens to be sure the soil has not dried out. It is better to thoroughly soak soil once or twice a week than to water a little every day. Providing sufficient moisture helps transplants survive adverse environmental conditions during the winter.
Two common mistakes many home gardeners make are choosing ornamentals that grow too large for the location and improperly planting them.
A specimen planted with great expectations can grow into a headache when you have to severely prune to keep it away from the house, or the utility company must drastically cut it back to keep branches out of power lines. Be sure to dig a transplant hole that is wide enough. It should be at least two to three times the diameter of the root ball, even wider is better. A hole that is saucer-shaped is better than a bowl-shaped one.
Ornamentals should not be planted any deeper then they grew in a container or field. Use the soil line on the trunk to gauge how deeply to plant balled-and-burlapped ornamentals. A distinctive color difference on the trunk bark indicates how deeply a specimen was planted in the field. If you are not sure how deeply to plant an ornamental, plant it on the shallow side. It is less damaging to plant a tree too shallow then to plant it too deep.
After transplanting, apply a two-to three-inch layer of mulch. Avoid piling mulch around the base of the trunk because this may encourage rotting. A layer of mulch will help conserve soil moisture and discourage weed growth. Mulching also helps moderate soil temperature that may cause the root system to heave out of the ground during winter freezing and thawing cycles.
Do not fertilize newly planted trees and shrubs during the first year because it will cause excessive vegetative growth at the expense of root development. Also, amending the soil with sand, compost or peat moss is unnecessary and can keep an extensive root system from developing.
Gardeners can find more information on home horticulture by contacting the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service Office or visiting the web site http://www/gardendata.org.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
The Brown Marmorated Stink Bug
The brown marmorated stink bug (BMSB) is a 5/8 inch long x 3/8 inch wide shield-shaped insect; its upper surface is mottled with brown and gray, the underside is white with gray or black markings. A native of the Japan-Korea-China region, this sap-feeding insect was reported frist from Allentown, PA in 2001. Since then, it has been discovered in localities in New Jersey, Maryland, Delaware, New York, Virginia, Massachusetts, and Ohio, as well as Oregon and California. Individuals collected around houses (tentatively identified as the (BMSB) were sent in from Boyd County late last week by Lori Bowling, County Extension Agent for Horticulture.
The BMSB draws attention in September and October when the winged adults fly to and enter structures as they look for protected sites to spend the winter. Typically, they will leave these sites in early May when females will fly to plants and lay clusters of about 30 eggs on the underside of leaves.
The nuisance value of this species is exceeded by plant damage inflicted as it feeds on fruit, field, and vegetable crops and a range of ornamentals. There is one generation each year.
Stink bugs are not common fall invaders in Kentucky so please sent insects matching the description above to your local Cooperative Extension Service office so that we may identify areas where populations may be becoming established. There is no quarantine program for this insect like ones seen with other exotic species. However, this insect has become a significant pest where it is established.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Walnut Bunch Disease
Bunchy shoots (witches brooms) with proliferating and deformed branches, twigs and leaves were observed on a 12-year-old ‘Frank’ heartnut tree this past week. ‘Heartnut’ is a variety of Japanese walnut Juglans ailanthifolia var.cordiformis, grown by commercial nut producers and hobbyists in Kentucky. Heartnut fruits are consumed for their good taste and health benefits and they are said to be high in antioxidants, fiber, and protein. Heartnut shells, when split open are heart-shaped.
Symptoms: Mature infected Japanese walnut trees may at first produce brooms on scattered limbs, but the disease can spread throughout the tree. Small trees may be completely consumed by the disease. Leaflets in brooms are smaller than normal and are abnormally narrow, curled, or cupped and often chlorotic. Fruits fall from diseased trees prematurely or nuts fail to fill out and have shriveled and blackened kernels. Leaves on infected shoots often senesce earlier in the fall. Infected black walnuts often show now symptoms, but may grow more slowly.
Cause: Bunch disease of walnut is caused by a phytoplasma. A phytoplasma is an insect-transmitted organism similar to a bacterium, but lacking a cell wall and typically inhabiting plant phloem cells. The walnut phytoplasma strain is related to the Prunus X-disease pathogen. Black walnut, J. nigra, is susceptible to infection by walnut brunch, but is very tolerant to infections and suffers little damage. Japanese walnut, J. ailanthifolia, is also susceptible to infection, but is intolerant to infection and infected trees can be severely damaged.
Nut growers who observe this disease in Heartnut will want to prune out infected limbs at the first opportunity. If the disease is widespread in the tree, complete removal may be needed. The insect vectors for walnut brunch are unknown.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Many Benefits to Soil Testing
If you want to increase crop yields or vegetable and flower garden production next spring, have your soil tested. This is the only way to determine whether the soil has the right alkalinity or acidity to release available nutrients.
The measure of soil acidity is pH, or potential hydrogen. It controls availability of all other nutrients. Generally, agronomic crops grow best when the pH is between six and seven. Some horticultural crops such as azaleas and blueberries require much more acidic soil conditions, in the range of 4.5.
An incorrect soil pH can cause problems. For example, a low soil pH can induce a calcium deficiency; while a high one can cause iron and zinc deficiencies.
Soil test results will give you research-based information on how much lime to use to make the soil more alkaline or sulfur to apply to make it more acidic.
Having the proper levels of soil nutrients will help maximize economic yields. This is increasingly important this year, because increasing energy costs mean higher fertilizer prices. In fact, farmers can expect to pay about 30 percent more for potash (potassium fertilizer) this year compared to last year.
A god soil testing program will maximize returns on your fertilizer investment by identifying fields that already have sufficient nutrients and those with inadequate fertility. Higher fertilizer prices make blanket applications increasingly expensive.
The past two growing seasons have been ideal for crop production, resulting in record yields in many areas. Additional soil nutrients have been removed with harvested crops. These fields likely are lower in essential nutrients and therefore will produce highest return on your fertilizer investment.
Soil testing also enables landowners to identify environmentally sensitive areas. For example, excessive phosphorus can cause low oxygen levels in lakes and streams that may lead to fish kills. Many Kentucky soils, especially in the bluegrass region, are naturally very high in phosphorus. A soil test will reveal these levels so no additional phosphorus fertilizer will be added.
Fall is a good time to take samples for soil testing. Each county Extension office has information on taking soil samples and sample bags or boxes. There is a nominal fee to cover the soil analysis costs.
Taking soil samples in the fall gives you plenty of time to carry out the recommendations. For instance, agricultural lime takes about six months to decompose and react with the soil; so it needs to be applied in the fall. Fertilizer prices usually are cheaper in the fall and soil is drier so it is easier to get into the field. The turn-around time for soil tests usually is faster in the fall, generally within a week.
You need to take different samples for various land uses such as agricultural fields, lawn, garden, fruit trees, ornamental shrubs and azaleas because these may have distinct fertility and acidity or alkalinity requirements.
Take a sample from poor growing areas and from adjacent areas of good growth. Mark each sample with a letter, or numbers on a field map. Collect at least 10 soil cores for small areas and up to 20 cores for larger fields.
How deeply you take cores for farm use depends on the tillage system used. For tilled areas, take cores from the surface to plow depth, usually six to eight inches. Take cores down to a four-inch depth in no-till fields and pastures.
For home lawns, take cores from the surface down to four inches. For gardens, ornamentals and fruit trees, take cores down to six to eight inches.
Be sure to take all cores from an area at the same depth. After you’ve collected soil cores, put them in a clean, dry plastic bucket, crush the soil and thoroughly mix it. Allow this to air dry in an open, contamination-free space.
When it dries, fill the sample bag and completely fill out the information sheet. A separate sheet is needed for agricultural soil, home gardens, lawns and turf grasses and commercial horticultural crops.
It’s a good idea to take core samples around the same time each year to compare results from year to year.
To obtain the most accurate soil fertility report, contact your county Extension office for more tips on properly taking samples.
Educational programs of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Helping Sickly Plants Get Well
If the houseplants you just brought inside appear anemic, the cause may be an unfavorable environment in your home or disease problems.
The unfriendly plant environment could be the result of lower light, humidity or temperatures, drafts or improper watering or fertilization. These adverse growing conditions often lead to various diseases indicated by leaf drop, yellow leaves, death of leaf edge and tip and spindly growth.
To keep plants looking good, become familiar with each one’s optimum growing conditions including light, moisture and fertility requirements.
If plants require high light intensity, clean the windows where these plants will be put to ensure that they receive the brightest light possible. The highest intensities generally are found in south-facing windows that are not blocked by outdoor vegetation or awnings. Plants likely will need less water and fertilizer when grown indoors so reduce these accordingly.
Another cause of the sickly appearance could be that while outdoors the plants were infested with insect pests or infected with disease organisms. This initial problem may become severe when you bring the plants indoors because the disease or insects’ natural enemies are not in your home. Diseases that spread from one plant to another usually are caused by bacteria, fungi, viruses and nematodes that come into contact with plants outdoors.
Black, brown or yellow spots may indicate a bacterial or fungal leaf spot disease. To combat foliar diseases, pick off and destroy affected leaves, leave plenty of space between plants, move them to a less humid area and do not wet foliage.
Viruses are moved to healthy plants by insects and on human hands. To eliminate a viral problem, discard diseases plants.
Soil borne organisms cause root and stem-rot diseases, which usually occur under very wet soil conditions. Preventive measures are to avoid overwatering plants and provide good drainage.
Common houseplant insect pests are aphids, mealybugs, white flies, scale spider mites and thrips.
Insecticides usually are not necessary on small infestations limited to a few plants. Dip a swab in rubbing alcohol to remove light aphid and mealybug infestations, or use tweezers or your fingernails to control them. Wash off mites by spraying plants with water.
Use a solution of two tablespoons of mild soap per gallon of water and a soft brush or cloth to eliminate heavy insect infestations. If you decide to use a conventional insecticide, always read and follow the manufacturer’s label instructions.
For more information, contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Firewood for those Wintry Nights
Every winter we look forward to the pleasures of warming our hands and feet by a blazing fire, mesmerized by the dancing flames.
When buying firewood two factors will determine just how hot your fire is-seasoning and the kind of wood. Wood is made up of air and cellulose (wood fiber). The more air space that wood has, the less there is to burn. Buying wood with the heaviest/densest per unit volume will keep you toasty.
Osage orange, hickory, black locust, all of the oaks, sugar maple and ash produce hot fires; plus they are easy to split. Yellow poplar, silver maple and red maple provide much less heat per log but are good for kindling because they catch fire quickly.
Avoid elm, sycamore and sweet gum because they are not as warm, and their fibers are so interlaced they will not split.
The good firewood species are found in Kentucky, although suppliers sometimes will identify their stock only as “hardwoods” without specifying the species. Be sure to ask what kind of wood you are buying.
The second thing to look for when buying firewood is how much water is in the wood. Since wood comes from a living plant, it contains water. The more water in the wood, the less heat it generates when it burns. Ask the vendor if the wood is seasoned. Wood is 50 percent moisture and needs six months to a year to dry out enough to burn efficiently. Dry or seasoned wood has splits in the ends of the logs and a gray appearance.
Firewood is sold in a variety of measures. A cord measures 4 feet wide by 4 feet high by 8 feet long. Often this is too much for the occasional user, as most homeowners are. Many vendors will price their firewood by the pickup truckload.
For the warmest fires at the best price, do some comparative shopping before you buy.
For more information on firewood, contact your Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
New Soil Fumigant Approved by EPA
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has granted a Section 3 registration to Arkema, Incorporated for the soil fumigant Paladin. Paladin represents a new class of preplant fumigant that can be used on tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, cucumbers, melons, strawberries, ornamentals, and forest nursery crops. Paladin will be marketed in the United States by United Phosphorus Inc. This product is an alternative to methyl bromide, a soil fumigant that was widely used to control numerous soil-borne pests in a number of crops. Many uses of methyl bromide were discontinued because of its ozone-depleting nature, leaving producers with few options to handle several important, weeds, pests, and diseases. Crop-specific ‘critical use exemptions’ are in place in Kentucky for turf establishment or pre-plant fumigation of peppers and tomatoes; however, limited availability of methyl bromide has driven product costs higher than many growers can afford.
The active ingredient in paladin, dimethyl disulfide, is not related to methyl bromide, and does not pose the same threat to the ozone layer in our atmosphere as the older fumigant. Dimethyl disulfide has a number of industrial uses and also occurs naturally. Although this fumigant is relatively safe and carries a ‘Warning’ signal word, it will be classified as restricted use. As such, only certified applicators will be able to purchase and use Paladin. As with fumigants such as methyl bromide, specialized equipment is necessary to apply paladin correctly and legally. The product label also requires that users set aside buffer zones to reduce off-target exposure, and that workers appropriate protective equipment, including respirators, during the treatment process.
Testing of this new product has been ongoing for three years in the southeastern United States, and it appears that Paladin, when mixed with another fumigant known as chloropicrin, is as effective against soil fungi and nematodes as methyl bromide. Where Paladin falls short is in the area of weed control. Like methyl bromide, Paladin gives great control of nutsedge, but unlike methyl bromide, the new product does not fare well against small-seeded broadleaves and grasses. Supplemental applications of pre-plant herbicides will be necessary to achieve broad-spectrum weed control where Paladin is applied.
In Kentucky, the need for alternatives to methyl bromide is not as great as in more horticulture-intensive states. Although our market is relatively small, a number of growers in the Commonwealth have suffered losses due to the lack of availability of methyl bromide. The introduction of Paladin should give Kentucky producers an adequate substitute that will provide good control of soil pests while protecting the environment.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
How Will Fruit Crop Diseases Respond to the Drought of 2010?
During this past growing season, Kentucky crops suffered from hot weather and varying degrees of drought, depending on location.
In most of Western Kentucky, the drought began in June, whereas in central regions the drought began in August.
For perennial crops such as apples and peaches, the drought likely affected the health and productivity of Kentucky orchards.
This past summer, leaves of drought-stressed plants closed their stomata which reduced their rate of photosynthesis. Photosynthesis reduction may not kill a tree or shrub, but it means fewer carbohydrates are made and stored for future use.
Recently transplanted fruit trees posed the greatest risk because they had not yet developed extensive root systems.
After experiencing a drought, some fungal fruit diseases do not show symptoms until the following season after the drought has passed.
The full extent of water stress in encouraging opportunistic pathogens causing diseases such as Botryosphaeria canker of apple or blueberry, peach Cytospora canker, or Amillaria root rot of most tree fruits is not clear.
The stress condition may have interfered with the plants’ defenses against such pathogens, or possibly, the reduced carbohydrate reserves provided the plant less energy to fight pathogen invasions.
Some apples and peaches, in their search for water, could have sacrificed surface roots to the drought while relying more heavily on deeper roots.
If we have excessive rains in spring, partial flooding may render these deeper roots more prone to root rot diseases. This could leave fruit trees with few functional roots so you may expect additional orchard decline.
A benefit of drought is a possible reduction in foliar diseases in the next year. There could be less carry-over inoculums from foliar and fruit diseases such as apple scab, cherry leaf spot, powdery mildew, or fruit rot diseases, for example. However, if we have a wet spring, this could be a short-lived benefit.
Looking ahead even farther, the rust infections of cedar that should have occurred, but didn’t during the dry 2010 summer, might result in fewer cedar galls in the spring of 2012 plus less rust on apples that same summer.
Kentucky fruit growers should be aware that even after the 2010 drought ends, their fruit trees will still carry scars and memories of it.
If you want to improve tree health, you should reduce competition from weeds, provide good drainage during wet periods plus adequate water during dry periods and thin fruits to avoid excessive fruit load.
For more information on fruit tree health, contact your Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Mulching Strawberry Plants
Hopefully, you had a chance to mulch your strawberry plantings before the early winter cold.
Mulch helps reduce the freezing and thawing of the soil that breaks off the small roots and in some cases can lift the plants partially out of the ground, translating into smaller berries and reduced yields.
Mulching also slows plant development in the spring which reduces the chances of frost injury to the flowers.
Mulch conserves moisture, keeps berries off the ground which reduces rot development and keeps dirt off of the berries. It can also reduce weed development making harvest much nicer under wet conditions.
Wheat straw is the preferred mulch material, but oat and rye straw also work well. Try to acquire mulch that does not contain a lot of weed, wheat, oat or rye seeds as this can substantially increase weed control requirements in the spring. Apply the mulch when the night temperature is expected to reach about 20 degrees F which is usually sometime in mid December in Kentucky, although this year the lower temperatures came earlier
Cover the plants so you can still see a number of leaves peeking out from beneath the straw. Excessive mulch can smother plants.
When spring comes, don’t hurry mulch removal. The mulch will protect the strawberry fruit buds as long as it remains on the plant.
Remove the mulch when the plants have begun to grow and the foliage looks slightly yellow. If the mulch is left on too long, it could substantially reduce your.
If you are a fruit or vegetable grower or are thinking about becoming one, the Kentucky Fruit and Vegetable Conference Jan. 3 and 4 at the Embassy Suites Hotel in Lexington.
Topics include commercial fruit and vegetable production, farmers’ markets, organic farming and gardening, high tunnel production, direct marketing and home-based produce micro processing.
For more information on mulching and the fruit and vegetable conference, contact the Lewis Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Incorporating Edible Plants into the Landscape
A nice landscape of a few trees and shrubs, some flowers and well-tended turf has value. Our landscapes help define our outdoor living space, provide shade and help screen unwanted views.
A well-maintained landscape may add as much as 5 to 10 percent to the value of our property. But landscapes can provide another resource that we don’t often consider-food. What if it were possible to introduce edible plants to your landscape?
Growing your own food has some obvious benefits such as fresh and flavorful fruits and vegetables. Many food-producing plants can fill the roles that we usually assign to other plants in our landscape.
Trellised blackberries, for example, make a great hedge or screen. Using thorny types can also provide some measure of security. Many retain some of their leaves throughout the winter to provide some screening. Trellising the blackberries will help define the planting and promote more upright growth. The time needed to prune and thin blackberries is comparable to many other hedge-type plantings. Also, blackberries have relatively few problem insects or diseases.
In flower beds, you can plant fancy-leafed lettuce in early spring. Lettuce is finished by mid-May, just around the time you are adding annual flowers.
In summer, try a few rainbow chard plants, colored peppers and purple or variegated basil. All are relatively pest free and are a good contrast to flowering annuals and perennials.
Also, consider containers. Cherry tomatoes grow well in hanging baskets where vines are allowed to droop over the edge of the pot. Several herbs are well suited to containers and provide savory flavoring for your salads and meals.
The next time you are looking to add plants to your landscape, don’t overlook herbs and food producing plants. Some may provide what you need and more.
For more information about adding herbs, food producing plants and where they grow best in your yard, contact your Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Looking Forward to the 2011 Vegetable Garden
Soon you’ll be receiving seed catalogs for the 2011 vegetable-growing season. While listening to the cold wind blow outside, what a comfort it is to think about spring and summer and planning your garden.
To make the most of your garden, every aspiring gardener should follow seven steps to have a successful gardening season.
- Plan your garden on paper before you begin.
- Select a good gardening site that has full sun for at least eight hours each day, relatively level, well-drained, close to a water source and not shaded.
- Prepare the soil properly and add fertilizer and lime according to soil-test recommendations.
- Plan only as large a garden as you can easily maintain. Beginning gardeners often overplant, and then they fail because they cannot keep up with the tasks required. You’ll have to control weeds and pests, apply water when needed and harvest on time. Vegetables harvested at their peak are tasty, but when left on the plants too long, the flavor is simply the best.
- Grow vegetables that will produce the maximum amount of food in the space available.
- Plant during the correct season for the crop. Choose varieties recommended for your area.
- Harvest vegetables at their proper stage of maturity. Store them promptly and properly if you do not use them immediately.
A well-planned and properly kept garden should produce 600 to 700 pounds of produce per 1,000 square feet and may include many different crops.
Finally, the closer the vegetable garden is to your back door, the more you will use it. You can see when your crops are at their peaks and can take maximum advantage of their freshness. Also, keeping up with the planting, weeding, watering and pest control will be easier.
For more guidance on planning your 2011 vegetable garden, contact your Lewis County Cooperative Extension Office or download the publication “Home Vegetable Gardening in Kentucky (http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs.id128/id128.pdf) from the Web.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Certified Seed a Good Investment
Buying certified seed is one of the few investments that gives you a guaranteed high rate of return.
Red clover is one example. College of Agriculture research on improved and common varieties consistently shows that certified seed produce higher-yielding, longer-lasting stands. Certified red clover seed can return three to five tons more hay over the life of the stand. These stands persist up to 30 months, compared to 15 to 20 months for those planted to common seed.
Alfalfa variety trials also support the value of investing in certified seed. Any of the top five certified varieties will produce three-fourths of a ton higher yield per acre annually than a common variety.
Certified seed may cost up to twice as much as common varieties. However, certified seed are worth the added expense because yield is where you get the extra return on investment.
Planning your seed orders well in advance is another way to gain the most from your investment. It enables you to get the varieties you want and make the best deal on seed.
Before you contact seed dealers, review university and seed company variety trials and compile a short list of varieties you want to plant. Get in touch with seed dealers early to ensure that you get the seed varieties and quantities you need. Also ask dealers about discounts for ordering early and other price incentives.
For more information, contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Managing the Calving Season
Providing sound management during the calving season can mean more live calves. Excessive losses can mean the difference between a year’s profit or loss for a beef producer.
It is important to have a short calving period to allow frequent observation and assistance if needed. Some specific things a producer can do to limit calf loss include:
- Separate first-calf heifers from mature cows. Calving difficulty can run as high as 30 to 40 percent for 2-year-old heifers compared to just 3 percent for mature cows. Place them in a small, accessivle pasture near a corral where assistance can be given if needed.
- Provide a clean area for calving. The calving area should be a well-sodded pasture or clean, dry maternity pen, not a wet, muddy lot. It should also be large enough for adequate exercise and offer protection from prevailing winds.
- Be familiar with the signs of calving. Within a few hours of calving, cows generally become nervous and uneasy. As contractions increase, a cow will likely wander away from the rest of the herd.
- Check cows frequently. Observing cows three or four times a day and providing assistance when necessary results in more live calves. However, cows should be disturbed as little as possible during labor.
- Know when a cow needs assistance. Intervention is justified when two or three hours have passed without progress or if delivery has not occurred within 90 minutes after the water sac appears. In a normal delivery, the calf’s front legs and head will appear first.
There are also a few steps to take after the calf is born to help it get off to a good start. These include making sure the calf is breathing normally after it is delivered and that it consumes colostrums. Ideally, a calf should consume its first milk within 15 to 30 minutes after birth.
Immediately after calving increase the cow’s energy intake to about 16 pounds of total digestible nutrients per day. The extra energy will help the cow produce enough milk for her calf and allow her to rebreed on schedule.
For more information on beef cattle production and management, contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Roadside Salt Can Injure Trees, Increase Disease Susceptibility
Snowfall this winter has greatly exceeded normal levels in most parts of Kentucky. As a consequence, greater than normal quantities of de-icing salts have been used on Kentucky roads, parking lots, and sidewalks this winter. High salt concentrations capable of injuring trees can accumulate on and near trees in several ways. Snow in parking lots, mixed with previously applied salt, is repeatedly pushed into piles on the landscape strips where trees are planted, thus concentrating salt near trees. Salted high-speed highways generate salt spray mists which can drift downwind onto trees 100-200 feet away. Sidewalk and street salt applications can readily flow with snowmelt water to nearby street and landscape trees.
When salt seeps into the soil and increases the osmotic potential of the soil water, water becomes unavailable to roots, and trees suffer as if from drought. Salt and other ions that are taken up by the roots are more concentrated and can accumulate to toxic levels in the plant tissues. Excess salt remaining in the soil can increase the soil pH to unfavorable levels. Tissue dehydration and toxicity also occur when salt spray deposited on the tree twigs and needles enters these tissues through lenticels and stomata. In addition salt injury may have secondary effects such as making trees more susceptible to disease or insect attack, interfering with absorption of essential mineral elements, and reducing cold hardiness.
We should expect salt-injured trees growing in an urban environment to be more susceptible to invasion by opportunistic microbes in the coming months. Diseases which may contribute to decline and death of trees growing under salt or other stresses include Botryosphaeria canker of redbud, dogwood, ash rhodendron, and other woody plants; Thyronectria canker of honey locust; Cytospora canker of Prunus species; HYpoxylon caker of oak; Armillaria root rot; ganoderma root and butt rot; dogwood anthracnose; Verticillum wilt; and bacterial leaf scorch.
Next season, and in future years, as trees begin to develop symptoms of leaf scorch, stunting of new growth, premature fall color and defoliation, twig and branch dieback, and in some cases tree death, salt exposure as a factor will need to be considered. Reactions to salt will vary with the species (even individuals within a species may vary), and whether roots or foliage are exposed. Given high enough doses of salt, even trees considered tolerant may show injury symptoms. Differences in salt tolerance have been observed and this partial list of trees may generally be classified as follows:
More tolerant of salt applied to soil or as spray: ash, birch, buckeye, eastern red cedar, black cherry, cottonwood, bald cypress, American & Siberian elms, ginkgo, golden rain tree, black locust, honey locust, bur, red, white, & willow oaks, callery pear, Austrian & Scots pine, black walnut, and yew.
Less tolerant of salt applied to soil or as spray: basswood, beech, birch, catalpa, crabapple, dogwood, ginkgo, hackberry, hawthorn, hemlock, holly, hornbeam, linden, red & sugar maples, mulberry, red & white pines, serviceberry, Norway spruce, sycamore, and tuliptree.
Treating to prevent salt injury. Spring rains will leach salt from contaminated soils and will wash salt off of the twigs and needles of exposed trees. However, in most cases this will be too little, too late. Early and thorough leaching of soils done by tree owners may be more effective than simply waiting for rain.
Avoiding salt injury. Sodium chloride is the main ingredient in salt used for de-icing roadsides and sidewalks. There are other de-icing compounds that contain mineral salts that are less harmful to plants. Consider products containing ingredients such as calcium chloride, calcium magnesium acetate, magnesium chloride, potassium chloride, or urea for de-icing purposes. All of these compounds are more expensive than sodium chloride, and if overused may still cause injury. However, they will generally harm plants less.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Options for Burndown Control of Marestail in No-Till Soybean This Spring
Marestail (also known as horseweed) continues to challenge many Kentucky soybean growers. The fact that many marestail populations in Kentucky are resistant or highly tolerant to glyphosate, makes it especially difficult to manage in burndown applications. The good news is there are other burndown herbicide options that are capable of controlling this problem weed. Plants that emerge in the fall and overwinter may be especially difficult to control compared to plants that emerge during late winter or early spring. In order to increase the likelihood of success, certain requirements must be met.
The following are examples of burndown herbicide options and factors to consider when they are applied for marestail control prior to planting no-till soybeans:
OPTION 1: 2,4-D Ester 0.5 to 1 lb ae/A+ Glyphosate 0.75 to 1.125 lb ae/A
-Weather conditions need to be favorable for plant growth. Cold temperatures before, during, or after application may limit control.
-Allow 7 to 30 days after application before planting soybeans. Note, certain 2,4,-D ester products such as weedone 650, E-99, and Salvo or Rage D-Tech (a premix of 2,4-D ester plus carfentrazone) require less than 30 days when the rate of 2,4-D is greater than 0.5 lb ae/A. (Consult labels for details)
-Apply to marestail 4 inches tall for optimum results. Plants that exceed 6 inches tall may not be controlled.
-The addition of AMS as an additive may limit the antagonism of 2,4-D to glyphosate’s control of certain grasses.
OPTION 2: Sharpen (sulfentrazone) at 1 oz/A or Verdict (sulfentrazone+dimethenamid) at 5 oz/A. Include MSO at 1 gal/100 gals+either AMS 8.5 to 17 lb/100 gals or UAN at 1.25 to 2.5 gals/100gals.
-An MSO based adjuvant is a required additive for marestail control and must contain at least 60% methylated seed oil. Do not use less than 1 pt of MSO/A with low-volume (<12.5 gals/A applications. Do not substitute nonionic surfactant for MSO. It is recommended that AMS also be included when mixing with glyphosate.
-Thorough spray coverage is important. A spray volume of 15 to 20 GPA is normally recommended, especially for such situations as dense stands of weeds, variable plant sizes, as well as plants that emerged in the fall and overwintered.
-Do NOT use Sharpen or Verdict as a tank mix partner or sequential application within 30 days of other PPO (protoporpyrinogen Oxidase) inhibitor herbicides such as Spartan (sulfentrazone), Valor (flumioxaszin), etc…due to the risk of crop injury. PPO herbicides labeled for postemergence applications in soybean may be applied 14 days after soybean emergence.
-Include glyphosate in order to aid in the control of grasses and other broadleaf weeds. Tank mixes with contact herbicides such as Aim (carfentrazone) or paraquat may limit burndown activity of saflufenacil.
-Apply before marestail exceeds 6 inches in height or diameter.
-Consult label for maximum cumulative rate of saflufenacil per cropping season. Allow a minimum of 30 days between sequential applications.
OPTION 3: Ignite 280 at 29 to 36 oz/A+AMS at 3 lb/A
-A silicone based antifoam agent may be added if needed.
-Ignite 280 (glufosinate) may be applied as a broadcast burndown treatment before planting any conventional or transgenic variety of soybean. If Ignite 280 is used in a burndown application, no postemergence applications may be applied in-season to the crop such as with LibertyLink soybean.
-Thorough spray coverage is important. Apply in a minimum of 15 gallons of water/A. A spray volume of 20 or more gallons of water/A may be needed for a dense canopy of weeds.
-Weather conditions used to be favorable for plant growth. Warm temperatures, high humidity, and bright sunlight enhance the performance of Ignite 280. Weed control may be reduced when weeds under stress due to cool temperatures, drought, or extended g periods of cloudiness.
-Apply Ignite 280 to marestail plants less than 6 inches in height. Consult label for sequential applications. Ignite 280 may not provide complete burndown control of grasses and certain broadleaf weeds.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Planting Corn into Sod, 2011
Planting corn into sod comes with some general opportunities and challenges. While some producers have plenty of experience with corn, others are more experiences with tobacco, hay or pastures. The general comments below are targeted to both types of producers.
1. Nitrogen benefit. Land that has been in a grass and/or legume sod for four years will reduce the fertilizer nitrogen requirement by about 25 pounds of N per acre. If that soil has been in sod for five years or more, then fertilizer nitrogen can be reduced by 50 pounds of N per acre.
2. The vast majority of hay and pasture fields are potassium (K) deficient. Hay removes a lot of K20 from the soil, while pasture fields tend to remove a little less. Without even conducting a soil test, odds are very good that the soil will need about 60 pounds of K20 per acre. Of course, a soil sample provides a much more accurate estimate of what is needed in the field.
3. Soil test now, or as soon as the soil allows. Fertilizer prices are rising along with corn commodity prices. A soil test spans 20 acres and will cost about $5 to $10 per sample. The fertilizer bill will be well over $1500 for those same 20 acres. A soil test identifies the nutrient deficiencies in the soil and allows you to apply only what fertilizer is needed. Pull about 10 to 20 cores, each 4 inches deep, for a 20 acre area. Mix all of the cores together and from that mix, send in a sample for testing.
4. Apply potassium, phosphorus and zinc fertilizer according to the soil test recommendations. These applications can be made anytime before planting.
5. It’s too late for lime this year. If your soil pH comes back low, you can apply agriculture lime, but it will not help much until the 2012 growing season. If you could have applied lime last fall, that would have been ideal. Pellitized lime is marketed as reaching faster with the soil, but it will not react fast enough to help with this season. Save your money and stay with commercial agriculture lime. If your pH is really low (5.5 or less), lower your expectations for yield. Unless you receive an inch of rain every week during the growing season, yields will be reduced.
6. Control the weeds early and stay aggressive. If at all possible, burndown the sod before you plant corn. Ideally, corn would be planted into “brown” remnants of weeds. Either Gramoxone or glyphosate are good options. Gramoxone tends to work a little better than glyphosate at cooler temperatures.
7. Keep sod waterways. Examine the sod fields and identify low areas where water flows. Many producers spend a lot of money establishing sod waterways. Here is one opportunity to leave them established before you start row-cropping.
8. Try to stay no-tillage if possible. You will get the most benefit from available nitrogen this way. Water-holding capacity is maximized with no-tillage. Erosion is minimized in no-tillage.
9. Test for compaction. Many hay and pasture fields have some surface compaction. The next time the fields are saturated with water, walk them with a penetrometer to test for compaction. (Most county extension offices have a penetrometer.) If that compaction is 3 to 4 inches deep, then you may need to do some surface tillage to break up the compaction. A field cultivator or chisel plow is the preferred tillage tool, if tillage is necessary. If the compaction is an inch or less, most no-till planters with sufficient weight can break through that compaction.
10. Plant a slightly higher seeding rate. Planting into sod, means planting intro grubs, wireworms, voles, field mice and other critters. Expect a little more seedling loss and increase the seeding rate by about 2,000 more seeds per acre to compensate. The seeding rate will range from about 32,000 seeds per acre on highly productive fields to about 24,000 seeds per acre on less productive fields.
11. Place seeds about 1.5 to 1.75 inches deep. The number one failure we have observed in sod-to-corn situations came from shallow seeding depth. In those cases, corn seedlings were more likely to show potassium deficiency, lodge over or have stunted in growth. Get the seeding depth correct. You will pay for it greatly if you do not.
12. Select a good hybrid. Based on the University of Kentucky trials, there is a huge swing in yield potential from commercial hybrids. Selecting a hybrid with a good track record in the state improves your odds of having a good hybrid and getting good yields. Never ask the seed salesman to “give me whatever you have”. Do your homework and select good hybrids.
13. Consider using a seed insecticide. Seed treatments such as Poncho 1250 or Cruiser Extreme 1250 offer enough insecticide to help control grubs and wireworms. If the season is cool and cloudy during germination, a foliar insecticide applied to young plants (1 to 3 fully emerged leaves) could be warranted. The cool, cloudy conditions slow corn growth and favor insect damage. Insect damage is typically more severe in fields with a lot of residue. Bright, sunny conditions favor quicker growth of the young plants and insect damage is less severe most of the time.
14. Spreading about one bushel of cracked corn per acre is a method for slowing down damage from voles, field mice and other varmints. The animals will eat the cracked corn, first, and are less likely to dig up seeds.
15. Assuming that the burndown application worked well, there will be some perennial and annual weeds that need to be controlled when the corn is emerging. In general, when weeds emerge with the corn crop, they should not be allowed to get more than 6 inches tall. Herbicide combinations that contain atrazine typically can be applied soon after planting up until the corn reaches 12 inches in height. If the previous field was especially weeds, then another herbicide application may be necessary. Many postemergence herbicides have spray restrictions when corn reaches about V6 to V8 (six to eight fully emerged leaves).
16. Nitrogen fertilizer can be applied preplant or sidedress on well-drained soils. However, on poorly and somewhat poorly drained soils, a portion of the nitrogen should be sidedressed, if possible. The limit to sidedressing depends on the equipment options. However, most nitrogen sidedress applications go on before corn reaches V4 to V6.
These are some general observations and guidelines for management of soils going from sod to corn. If you have extensive experience in corn production, you know that different fields require different management strategies. If you have less experience with corn production, take the time to ask others with experience. Learn from them. There is tremendous potential for profits from corn this year, but proper management-and favorable weather—will be critical to attaining those profits. Contact your local county extension agent at 796-2732 for more resources and expertise on corn production.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Ridomil Gold is Now Approved for Use in Tobacco Transplant Water
The Kentucky Department of Agriculture granted a Special Local Need, or 24 © label to Syngenta Crop Protection on March 21, 2001 that allows the application of Ridomil Gold SL in the field at rates of 4 to 8 fl oz/A to burley and dark tobacco in setter (transplant) water. This represents a major departure from what the manufacturer and University of Kentucky Extension has recommended to producers going back to when Ridomil was first introduced in the 1980’s. What follows is the story of how we got to this point, and how we can use this new control tactic to help manage black shank on tobacco.
Ridomil Gold, along with related products such as Ultra Flourish and MetaStar, has long been an important part of our recommended strategy for managing black shank on burley and dark tobacco. Application placement is critical for successful suppression of disease, dictating soil-directed treatments followed by incorporation to ensure good uptake and protection of tobacco. We also know what, in general, best disease control is achieved if Ridomil is applied before planting and that supplemental applications are sometimes required to provide season-long suppression of black shank. Good disease control comes at a cost, though. Ridomil is priced between $85 and $110 per acre based on treatment with 1 pt.
Over the years, many have wondered if it would be possible to add Ridomil to the setter barrel and apply the fungicide in transplant water; many have probably ‘experimented’ with this off-label method. With this application methodology, the fungicide would be applied directly into the root zone to give early protection against black shank, and could potentially reduce the amount of Ridomil applied per acre. This method would be simpler to perform than the traditional broadcast spray followed by a pass through the field to incorporate the fungicide. Thus the transplant water method of applying Ridomil could possible reduce chemical cost and also the expenses of fuel and time.
So why haven’t we been able to apply Ridomil in transplant water? There are several reasons, but the biggest has been the risk of plant injury. Earlier formulations of Ridomil (ridomil 2EC and Ridomil Gold EC) contained high levels of solvents that could cause severe phytotoxicity or even death of tobacco seedlings, making a transplant-water application risky when rates high enough to provide control of black shank were used. Following the release of Ridomil Gold SL, a water-soluble formulation of mefenoxam (the active ingredient in Ridomil Gold), the perception among university and industry scientists about using Ridomil in tobacco transplant water began to change.
The move to a new formulation was thought to reduce the phytotoxicity threat and several universities, including the University of Kentucky, began trials to evaluate the setter-barrel applications of Ridomil for suppression of black shank. Results from these trials show clearly that Ridomil Gold SL is safe to tobacco when applied in setter water and provides early-season protection against black shank. So long as the fungicide is applied correctly. We knew from anecdotal evidence that growers already using Ridomil in their setter water were adding anywhere from a capful to as much as 4 fl oz to treat an acre, with the average rate being somewhere around 2 fl oz/A. Our research has shown that 4 fl oz/A is at the low end of efficacy against black shank, and that a rate of 8 fl oz/A gives more consistent suppression of disease. The degree of control seen with setter water applications of Ridomil Gold is affected by disease pressure and variety.
Work done in Grant County from 2008 to 2010 has shown that 8 fl oz/A of Ridomil Gold applied in setter water is as effective in suppressing black shank as 1 pt/A applied broadcast to soil before planting on KT 201, KT 206, and KT 209, varieties with high (7-level or above) race 0 and race 1 resistance. However, the setter water treatment did not perform as well as broadcast-applied Ridomil on varieties like KY 14 x L8, TN 90, or KTH 2901, which have 4-level or lower resistance to either race 0 or race 1 black shank. We also noted that the setter-water treatment at 8 fl oz/A was similar to 1 pt/A applied as a broadcast spray in years when disease pressure was low, but was outperformed slightly in terms of yield by the broadcast treatment when disease pressure was higher, even on a variety with relatively high resistance to black shank, KT 204.
This newly-approved application method will not completely replace the standard, higher-rate method, based on our results. Setter-water treatments with Ridomil will be best suited to growers using sound management practices (sanitation and crop rotation) along with one of the newer resistant varieties, and who are looking for additional protection from black shank. In these cases, it will be possible to get adequate control of disease and also reduce fungicide costs by approximately $70/A. Where disease pressure is high, particularly if limited crop rotation is being practiced, or where varieties with little or no resistance are being planted in fields at risk to black shank, broadcast-applied Ridomil at 1pt/A would be a more effective treatment.
To get the best results from Ridomil Gold SL when applying in transplant water, follow these guidelines:
1. Use good management practices and plant a variety with moderate to high resistance to race 0 and race 1 black shank.
2. Use only Ridomil Gold SL in setter water. Ridomil Gold EC and Ridomil 2EC contain high levels of solvents and can injur or kill tobacco seedlings. Likewise, avoid generic versions of mefenoxam or metalaxyl. Only Ridomil Gold SL is covered by the new Special Local Need Label.
3. Add 4 to 8 fl ox/A of Ridomil Gold SL to no less than 200gal/A of transplant water to avoid injury to tobacco. Use the high rate in areas with a greater risk of black shank.
4. Make 1-2 supplemental, soil-directed applications at 1 pt/A if needed to provide control of disease.
5. Do not apply Ridomil Gold SL to stressed or weak seedlings, or during hot, dry conditions to avoid serious plant injury.
6. Mix thoroughly before transplanting. Using a separate tank to pre-mix Ridomil Gold SL will help ensure thorough mixing, and also help prevent problems with other pesticides or fertilizers that may be added to the setter water. This will also help ensure a consistent concentration of Ridomil Gold SL during transplanting, resulting in less injury potential and better control of disease.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Got Cedar, Now What?
Many Kentucky landowners can answer yes to this question. The more difficult questions are: what are you going to do with it, how can it be harvested, and how do you go about trying to sell it. Many landowners will have a much harder time trying to answer those questions. These “Got Cedar: Now What” programs are designed to assist landowners that have red cedar on their property and are not sure of what to do with it. By attending this program, you will gain an understanding of the red cedar markets, how to manage and harvest red cedar, and how to go about selling it. There is also a dedicated time at the end of the program to get your red cedar related questions answered.
Make plans to join us for this informative meeting that will explore a potential asset that is often overlooked and disregarded. The Bracken County Extension Service will host this meeting on April 12, 2011 starting at 6:30. Specialists from the University of Kentucky Department of Forestry will conduct the program, and light refreshments will be served. Please call the office at 606-735-2141 to make a reservation in order to assure the number of publications and copies for everyone.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Recognizing Brown Marmorated Stink Bug Damage
As the weather continues to warm insects will become active soon, if they are not already active. One insect that we will be watching for carefully is the brown marmorated stink bug (BMSB) that was first confirmed in Kentucky that past fall. This new invasive insect pest may be one of the more serious insect pests in Kentucky in the coming years as it has a very wide host range attacking many field and horticultural crops as well as ornamental plants and is home invader in the winter months. This article describes the type of damage and when it is likely to occur on different field and horticultural crops. While the most serious damage is usually to the fruiting parts of plants, they may also feed on leaves and stems of some hosts. As this pest is new to our state, my comments have been gleaned from conversations with or reports from others that have battled this pest in the mid Atlantic states. Reports from those areas indicate that this insect becomes active in the field sometime in mid to late April.
Brown marmorated stink bug has been identified in several Kentucky counties. It has been confirmed in Jefferson, Fayette, Boyd, Carter, Rowan, Lawrence, and Greenup counties and also reported in Breckinridge, Grayson, Henry, Carroll, and Lewis counties. We have not seen specimens not been able to confirm the reports from the last five counties listed. This pest is a very capable hitchhiker and has the ability to rapidly move to new areas. If you suspect BMSB from a county that has not yet been confirmed to have it, bring a sample specimen to your county extension office.
Damage to field crops has been serious in soybeans and field corn in the mid Atlantic states. In both of these crops BMSB feeds on the fruiting part of the plants, the developing soybean pod or the corn ear. Pod feeding will result in discolored and shriveled beans similar to that caused by other stink bugs to soybeans. In field corn they will feed through the husk with their piercing sucking mouthparts causing shriveled kernels. BMSB that are crushed during the chopping of silage and fed to dairy cattle may cause an off flavor in milk (a cilantro-like flavor).
In vegetable crops, BMSB will cause damage to tomato and pepper fruit similar to that of the brown stink bugs. They feed on developing fruit with the piercing sucking mouthparts causing hard corky areas under the skin of the fruit that does not color properly. Damage to sweet corn is similar to that described for field corn, except that damaged kernels will discolor when cooked. With green beans, they attack the flowers and pods resulting in deformed pods and shriveled and/or missing seeds. With squash and pumpkins they are reported to attack the fruit and even kill plants.
In fruit crops, particularly apples, pears, peaches and nectarines, BMSB is reported to begin attacking developing fruit very early in the season and continue through harvest. For this reason, growers are advised to monitor for BMSB weekly from fruit set until harvest. Damage to tree fruits will result in sunken areas on the fruit surface and discolored darkened, corky areas under the skin of the fruit. These depressions appear to be up to 3/8 inch or so in size. These damaged spots can easily be mistaken for cork spot on apples. They will also feed on blueberries, brambles, and strawberries, but no reports have been seen on the types of damage. Damage by our brown stink bugs in brambles can result in undersized droplets and droplets that don’t color properly. In grapes they will attack the berry and can also act as contaminant causing an off flavor in wine if the bugs are crushed with the berries. It has been reported that as few as 10 per lug of grapes can create a noticeable off-flavor.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Carpenter Bees
Carpenter bees closely resemble bumble bees but have bare, shiny black abdomens. Bumble bees have hairy abdomens with at least some yellow markings. Bumble bees nest in the ground, while true to their name, carpenter bees chew tunnels into wood to construct nesting sites.
Carpenter bees spend the winter in their galleries and begin to feed on nectar and pollen around early April. Females may begin a new nest or use the existing one. The entryway is a round 0.5 inch diameter hole in the underside of a soft wood board. The gallery soon turns 90 degrees and follows the wood grain. Sawdust accumulates beneath the tunnel opening as the female extends it. The bees prefer bare or weathered wood but a coating of paint or stain will not guarantee the wood won’t be used. Liquid sprays of carbaryl (Sevin) or a pyrethroid (e.g. permethrin or cyfluthrin) can be applied as a preventive to wood surfaces which are attracting bees. Residual effectiveness of these insecticides is often only 1-2 weeks, however, and the treatment may need to be repeated. Tunnels which have already been excavated are best treated by puffing an insecticidal dust (e.g., 5 percent carbaryl) into the nest opening.
Aerosol sprays labeled for wasp or bee control also are effective. Leave the hole open for a few days after treatment to allow the bees to contact and distribute the insecticide throughout the nest galleries. Then, plug the entrance hole with a piece of wooden dowel coated with carpenter’s glue, or wood putty. This will protect against future utilization of the old nesting tunnels and reduce the chances of wood decay.
Although carpenter bees are less aggressive than wasps, female bees provisioning their nests will sting. Treatment is best performed at night when the bees are less active, or while wearing protective clothing.
Females begin to provision the gallery with pollen and deposit eggs during May. Bee development takes 40 to 50 days and 8 to 9 bees are produced in an average gallery. Emerging bees are not very active, they remain in the tunnel for most of the summer and fall and take up the “bee life” in the spring. Some females live for two years.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Soil Compaction Creates Unfriendly Garden Site
Soil compaction creates an unfriendly growing environment for plants and is a serious problem for many home gardeners. However, it is relatively easy to prevent.
Compaction transforms soil into a difficult environment for plant growth by making it harder for roots, water and soil to penetrate the ground. Major causes are working the soil when it is too wet, foot traffic and excessive rototiller use.
To reduce this problem, it is best to avoid working in the garden or walking in it when the soil is too wet. Squeeze a handful of soil and if it forms a muddy ball, rather than crumbling when you open your hand, stay out of the garden area.
Walk between plants and rows in the garden area to reduce compaction in primary plant growth areas.
Excessive rototiller use destroys soil structure and promotes compaction. When compaction takes place in a dense soil structure, it also makes root growth more difficult.
A little hand hoeing, rather than a rototiller, may be all you need to do to eliminate a few weeds. It usually causes less soil damage than repeated rototilling and is less harmful to the earthworms that help aerate the soil.
You also can use mulch to control weeds instead of tilling. A two-to three-inch layer of mulch relieves the pressure of walking on the soil, reducing the degree of compaction.
Contact me at the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service for more gardening information.
Educational programs of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Managing Somatic Cell Count on Dairy Farms
Lowering somatic cell count (SCC) is an important issue for Kentucky dairy farmers because lower somatic cell counts provide a higher quality product and increase income through increased milk production and milk quality bonus payments. Somatic cell counts, which measure white blood cells in milk, indicate bacterial infection when they are more than 240,000 per milliliter. SCCs are not an actual measure of clinical mastitis but can be used as an indicator to reduce milk loss, drug costs, secondary problems and the risk of culling. Close monitoring of SCC also increases chances of recovery from a mastitis infection.
There are no human health concerns with higher somatic cell counts, and there is no difference in taste or smell. However, because the European Union (EU) is pushing for a lower somatic cell count standard, dairy farmers co-ops across the United States are pushing to begin adopting these lower numbers. Current limits in the United States for SCC are 750,000 parts per milliliter. The EU mandates that each farm’s milk (rather than mixed milk fluids) be under 400,000 parts per milliliter.
The industry expects that similar reductions in somatic cell count levels soon will be implemented in the United States. Milk is increasingly sold on a global platform, so early adoption will allow Kentucky dairy producers a greater ability to compete with farms that meet worldwide standards. The National Milk Producers Federation will vote to follow a stepped reduction of SCC, below:
- 600,000 per ml by Jan. 1, 2012
- 500,000 per ml by Jan. 1, 2013
- 400,000 per ml by Jan. 1, 2014
High somatic cell counts indicate mastitis. Monitoring SCC is a tool to assess mastitis levels in the herd and take appropriate and swift actions if levels change. There are many procedures dairy farmers can follow when trying to lower SCC. These include:
- Maintaining or increasing cleanliness of cows
- Keeping thorough records to measure seasonality, frequency and management changes.
- Characterizing problem cows.
- Determining causative bacteria.
- Reducing environmental exposure.
- Changing milking procedures to control pathogens.
- Scheduling equipment maintenance.
- Improving cows’ immune systems to they can fight mastitis more effectively.
Lower somatic cell counts yield a higher quality fluid milk product, one which provides an increased cheese yield and has a longer fluid milk shelf life. This better quality product translates into higher payments for farmers, ranging roughly from 25 cents to $1 per hundredweight. Because processors seem to be moving quickly toward these lower standards, lowering SCC is an important step to remain competitive.
For more information on somatic cell count in dairy herds, contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Wet Conditions Create Weed Management Challenges in Corn
The prolonged wet conditions this spring have created additional challenges in regards to weed control. The following are possible scenarios that corn farmers may encounter and factors to consider as we progress through the next several days.
1. Corn Not Planted And Herbicide Was Not Applied:
Growers will have flexibility in the choice of burn down options; however, weeds may be larger than typically observed when corn is planted earlier in the spring. Glyphosate may be the best choice for control of larger emerged weeds, but higher rates may be required. Whereas, paraquat may be preferred over glyphosate in cases where rapid burn down control of weedy vegetation is needed for a more favorable environment for corn to emerge. Some disadvantages with paraquat are: a) it may be more expensive, b) usually requires a greater spray volume for best results, and c) is limited in its ability to control large plants relative to glyphosate. The addition of dicamba (eg. Clarity, etc.) or 2,4-D with glyphosate or paraquat may be warranted to aid in control of larger broadleaf weeds. A soil-residual herbicide treatment will extend control during the early part of the season and will limit the need for multiple postemergence herbicide treatments. However, warm-season weeds are likely to emerge quickly and grow rapidly as temperatures increase; therefore, growers should monitor fields regularly and be timely with postemergence herbicide treatments when needed for managing weed escapes.
2. Corn Not Planted but Pre-plant Herbicide Was Applied:
A significant portion of soil-residual herbicides applied earlier in the spring have probably dissipated from the soil surface due to the large volume and intensity of rains that occurred since the treatments were sprayed. The need to spray an additional herbicide treatment will depend on specific field situations. If fields are currently weed-free and do not have a history of weed problems, growers may prefer to go ahead and plant the field, and then monitor fields closely and apply additional herbicide treatments that also includes a soil-residual herbicide. The maximum cumulative rate of the soil-residual herbicide (i.e. amount initially applied plus what will be applied) can determine the rate and specific herbicide to apply. For example, if the previous amount of atrazine applied was 1.5 lb ai/A, then an additional amount of 1.0 lb ai/A can be applied in order to comply with the maximum total of 2.5 lb ai/A of atrazine allowed per season. When using premixed products, consider the cumulative level of all active ingredients for determining the rate of a specific product.
In cases where growers plant o switch from corn to soybeans, they need to consider the risk of soybean injury from corn herbicides applied earlier in the spring. Soil-applied herbicides containing atrazine are a primary concern when switching from corn to soybeans.
3. Corn Emerged But No Herbicide Was Applied:
Growers who planted Roundup Ready (RR) corn hybrids will have the opportunity to use glyphosate for managing emerged weeds after corn has also emerged. It may be more difficult to salvage fields where corn does not have the RR herbicide tolerant trait. Several cool-season weeds are beginning to mature and dieback and should not pose a problem; whereas, such weeds as Italian ryegrass, marestail, ragweeds will be a challenge to control, particularly if nitrogen was applied preplant. Applying a soil-residual herbicide is a good strategy for extending weed control during the early part of the season. Many soil-residual herbicides can be tank mixed with postemergence glyphosate applications in RR corn. Consult the labels of soil-residual herbicides for timing relative to maximum size or growth stage of corn. Do not use liquid fertilizer as a carrier for applying herbicide treatments after corn has emerged. If initial corn stands are poor, consider a burn down program that will control surviving plants and then replant.
4. Corn Emerged and Herbicide Was Applied:
Many comments in scenario 2 may also be applicable for this situation. An additional soil-residual herbicide that is registered to be applied over-the-top of emerged corn may be warranted in order to extend early-season weed control. Corn plants stressed due to saturated soil conditions may be prone to herbicide injury compared with corn growing in normal soil conditions. If corn stands are not acceptable, consider a burn down program that will control the unwanted corn and provide soil-residual control or weeds.
5. Corn Emerged But Field Has Scattered Flooded Low Lying Areas With No Corn:
Assuming that corn stands in the majority of the field is acceptable; growers may replant the low lying areas. Keep in mind corn growth in the replanted areas will be delayed relative to the remainder of the field. This may impact how the areas are managed in regards to weed control particularly in regards to applying post-emergence herbicides
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Too Much Like the Old West
Wow! People are stealing copper pipes out of buildings and catalytic converters off cars. What’s next? Cattle? Yes, now that cattle are valuable commodity, cattle rustling is on the increase. That’s just a little too much like the Old West.
Security for livestock is difficult. Fences are designed to keep cattle in-not to keep thieves out, isolated herds can’t be watched 24 hours a day and livestock can be difficult to positively identify. This all adds up to providing thieves with an accessible target without too much risk.
It would seem like today’s cattle rustlers aren’t your normal thieves. They need a truck and trailer and some knowledge of handling and selling cattle-so as not to arouse suspicion. They are looking for easy targets-easy to steal and easy to dispose of. What can you do to make their “job” more difficult?
(1) Identify cattle. A well designed ownership brand is probably the best deterrent. A registered brand in Kentucky is considered your legal property and recognized in any court of law as proof of ownership. For more information on registering your own livestock brand, you can contact:
Kentucky Department of Agriculture
Division of Animal Health
100 Fair Oaks Lane, Suite 252
Frankfort, Ky. 40601
502-564-3956
Tattoos and eartags-along with records on sex, color and other descriptions could be beneficial in proving ownership if stolen cattle. However, it would be more desirable to prevent the theft in the first place. A thief would not be as likely to steal cattle with an ownership brand as he would unmarked cattle.
(2) Restrict access to cattle by keeping gates locked (especially on your laoding chute and corrals) and keep lanes blocked. Don’t build working facilities and loading chutes near public roads.
(3) Post cattle organization sites prominently, especially those which offer rewards for arrest and conviction of rustlers.
(4) Enlist your neighbors help in watching your property and cattle. Remember in order to have good neighbors you need to be one. Do something for them sometime. It could pay dividends.
(5) Watch for strangers or any activities that are out of the ordinary. Write down the license plate number of any suspicious vehicles.
(6) Report suspected losses as soon as possible. The sooner a theft is reported, the greater your chances of recovery.
Cattlemen must work to protect their investment. Don’t let your cattle become easy targets. The theft of a trailer-load of cattle would be a terrible loss for most producers especially at today’s prices. Don’t be a victim
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Banner Year for Carptenter Bees?
There have been lots of complaints about carpenter bees this spring. These beneficial pollinators are intimidating. Also, they can cause considerable structural damage over time. Carpenter bees spend the winter as adults in their gallery homes. Now, they are starting new tunnels or expanding old ones in order to raise a brood of about six larvae during the summer. Accumulations of sawdust may be the first sign that their work has begun.
A carpenter bee uses its strong mandibles to chew a ½-inch diameter entry hole into wood, then turns to follow the grain. The tunnel is lengthened at the rate of about 1 inch per week. Ultimately, it can be 6 to 10 inches long and can contain 6 or 7 individual larval cells. Each is provisioned with a ball of nectar and pollen as food for the grub-like larva. Over the years, galleries may become several feet long.
Carpenter bees prefer weathered softwood but will chew into stained, treated or painted wood. Eaves, window trim, facia boards, siding, wooden shakes, decks and outdoor furniture are satisfactory choices, too. Pressure treated, stained, or painted wood is not completely safe from attack.
Carpenter bees are solitary insects, each living in individual tunnels. However, large numbers can build where there is an abundance of suitable nesting material.
Carpenter bee control is not easy so prevention is the best long term strategy. Use of hardwoods when practical or covering softwoods with flashing or screen will prevent injury to areas that are chronically attacked. Closing barn and shed doors while the bees are establishing new galleries should help to reduce infestation. General maintenance helps because carpenter bees exploit rough areas on wood surfaces to begin a nest. Filling cracks and crevices and painting or varnishing exposed wood will make it less attractive.
There are some insecticide options but accessibility and dimensions of infested surfaces can make treatment impractical or limit its success. The use of dust formulations of insecticides, applied directly into tunnel openings, has been the favored option. In this approach, bees are exposed to the dust as they enter and leave. Ultimately, they should receive a lethal dose. Example dusts include boric acid dust, or products such as Bonide Termite & Carpenter Ant Dust (deltamethrin). Diatomaceous earth and combinations of dusts with desiccants are also possibilities.
Insecticide sprays can be applied into tunnels but pick up of the dried residue may not be as rapid as with dusts. Insecticide applications to wood may provide some preventive effect but bees are not ingesting the wood, only gouging it away and can work quickly through the treated surface. Example sprays include Bayer Home Pest Control Indoor & Outdoor Insect Killer (cyfluthrin), Bonide Total Pest Control Outdoor Formula (permethrin), Bonide Termite & Carpenter Ant Killer Ready to Use (deltamethrin) Spectracide Bug Stop (1-cyhalothrin)
Aerosol wasp and hornet killers shoot a long jet of spray but the nimble bees are challenging targets and the cost per bee can be very high.
After treatment, tunnel entries should be filled and sealed so they are not attractive to bees next season.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Pest Management with Brown Marmorated Stink Bug
While the brown marmorated stink bug (BMSB) is just beginning to become established in
Kentucky, most people will not see it this year and many of those that do run across it will not see the need to control it. But some backyard gardeners and commercial growers in eastern Kentucky or even near Lexington or Louisville may begin to experience problems with this invasive pest.
BMSB has a wide variety of field, fruit and vegetable crops it attacks including corn, soybeans, apples, pears, peaches, cherries, grapes, plums, blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, mulberries, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, squash, pumpkin, beans, sweet corn, pecans, and hazel nuts. It will also feed on a variety of ornamentals including butterfly bush, roses, honeysuckle, princess tree, redbud, lilac, celosia, hibiscus, orchids (in homes), dogwood, dahlia, zinnias, chrysanthemums, viburnum, snapdragon, maple, catalpa, crabapple, Sycamore, Yellowwood, honey locust, tulip tree, serviceberry, persimmon, birch, linden, hackberry, elm, and hawthorne. Over an extended period in mid fall, it begins to enter homes in large numbers to pass the winter indoors. People have reported very large numbers to pass the winter indoors. People have reported very large numbers on or in their homes in the fall.
While we still need to identify the best management practices for this new pest, this article outlines some of the practices that can be considered for use to manage BMSB where it is a field or garden pest.
Monitoring: There are pyramid traps that would do moderately well to attract and captured the BMSB nymphs. These yellow or black traps are available commercially and aggregation lures are used with them. Black light traps are more effective and attract the adults. BMSB monitoring on trees can be done with beat sheets and a beating stick. With soybeans a sweep net can be used during the reproductive stages. We don’t have any guidelines or thresholds based on the numbers of BMSB, so monitoring at this point is to alert us to its presence on these crops. They are more likely to be found on many of its hosts while those plants are flowering or fruiting.
Trap Cropping: This has been used with some success with some of our native stink bugs. This technique uses a variety of highly attractive plants that are sown in a strip between the location where the grower thinks the stink bugs are coming from and the crop to be protected. With brown stink bug, millet, triticale, buckwheat, peas (blackeyed and crowder), and sunflower mixes have been used as traps crops plants. They are attractive during seed head formation and staggered plantings (a couple of weeks apart) can be used. Generally these strips are 6 or more feet wide. As stink bugs gather on the trap crop plants they are controlled before they move to the main crop, so less insecticide is used on the main crop. This also helps to preserve natural enemies and pollinators on the main crop.
Mechanical Exclusion: Row covers and fine netting can be used to prevent BMSB from colonizing high value plantings. Generally, I think that the plants will need to be screened prior to flowering, so plants that require insect pollination or benefit from insect pollination may need an additional strategy for pollination. Pollination for tomatoes grown in screen houses is accomplished with bumble bee colonies that can be purchased. Remay or other fine netting can be used to exclude BMSB. Bagging of individual fruit could be used with backyard fruit production.
Insecticidal Control: It is more difficult to control this pest with many of our commonly used insecticides. Dr. Tracy Leskey with the USDA in West Virginia tested a large number of insecticides against BMSB in the lab and found only a few that provided control levels that would even be considered good. Many of these insecticides that do not control BMSB are ones we consider damaging to natural enemies and IPM programs. I am hoping that by the time we need to treat for this new pest we will have additional information to provide as pesticide recommendations. With some crops, the attack by BMSB occurs over a long period of time and continuous reinvasion occurs, so multiple applications may be needed. Growers need to be mindful of seasonal limits with the few effective insecticides.
Some of the insecticides that appear to be effective from Dr. Leskey’s laboratory studies include Lannate, Brigade, Endosulfan, Lorsban, Orthene, permethrin, Danitol, and Venom. Be careful to read these labels thoroughly and apply them according to their labeled instructions.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Goats and Sheep as a New Enterprise on Your Farm
The idea of raising sheep and goats appeals to both beginning and experienced farmers across Kentucky. One advantage of small ruminants is their size. Compared to cattle, small ruminants are good for several reasons. First, you need less land. A typical stocking rate is about one-half acre for each ewe or nanny goat, compared to three to five acres for each cow. Small animals are easier to handle and manage when administering veterinary or basic health care. And the initial investment is much smaller than for cattle.
If you are considering sheep and goats, start your evaluation with a budget. Make or use an enterprise budget. The budget starts with an income section. A well run enterprise should produce about two lambs or kids per female per year. To increase the size of the enterprise, you will want to keep female lambs or kids to breed. Holding on to animals rather than selling them will limit your income until the enterprise is the size you want. Prices are strong now, which does increase start-up costs. However, lambs and kids can bring over $2 per pound.
Of course, cost remains an important consideration. The advantage of goats especially, is that they are foragers-they eat pasture and brush. This makes them a good fit for many parts of Kentucky, where some land is not well suited to row crops. Another consideration is fencing. Fencing may need upgrades, because sheep and especially goats are hard to keep inside fences. Feed and mineral supplements are another cost. The most profitable sheep and goat enterprises depend upon pasture and use only a small amount of feed supplement. The price of purchased feed has gone up dramatically, so this is an important factor.
Marketing the product is another issue to consider. Both lambs and kids can be sold at established auction markets, with the Kentucky Department of Agriculture graded sales being the best. Auction sales take minimal marketing effort on the farmer’s part-you just take them to market on salt day. Prices are currently quite good. Another option to increase income further is selling directly to consumers, but this method takes increased effort over auction sales.
Finally, good managers can control potential pitfalls that may cause major headaches for novices. Predators such as coyotes and dogs can wreck havoc on flock or herd. Having guard dogs is one of the best ways to protect your sheep and goats. Parasites are another issue that requires both management and medication.
For more about production, economics and marketing, visit http://www.ca.uky.edu/agecon/ or contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Full as a Tick
The American dog tick (ADT) has been particularly abundant this season. It and the lone star tick are the two problematic species in the state. Adult ADT spend the winter on the ground and are active from April through June, seeking a dog, larger mammal, or human host for a blood meal. Engorged females drop off the host and develop a batch of 4,000 to 6,500 eggs that are laid on the ground. Mortality is high so only a few will survive to adult stage.
A tiny 6- legged larva will emerge from each egg in 3 to 4 weeks and climb on vegetation to wait for a passing small mammal, such as a mouse, for the first blood meal. Larvae can survive up to 11 months without feeding if necessary.
Engorged larvae drop to the ground, digest the meal, and molt to the nymphal stage. This process can be as short as three weeks to as long as several months. The nymphs repeat the process, often using a raccoon or opossum as the second host, before molting to the adult stage. Adults can survive without feeding for two years if necessary.
The ADT is a vector of the bacterium that causes Rocky Mt Spotted fever (RMSF). Typical symptoms include: fever, headache, abdominal pain, vomiting, and muscle pain. A rash may also develop, but is often absent in the first few days, and in some patients, never develops. The incidence of RMSF in the US has increased noticeably over the past 10 years. However, according to the Centers for Disease Control, the incidence in Kentucky (and Ohio) is low (0.2 to 1.4 cases per million residents). It is greater in our other neighboring states.
A toxin from the ADT can cause tick paralysis in dogs and occasionally small children. This can occur when ticks attach at on the neck or base of the skull. Full recovery usually occurs within 1 to 3 days after removal of the tick. It is important to check yourself, children, and dogs when in and leaving areas where ticks are or may be active.
Educational progams of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
New Research on Rapid Drying of Hay
Hay is a significant agricultural crop in Kentucky, with receipts around $150 million in 2009, the most recent year for which data is on file. The Commonwealth typically harvests around 2.5 million acres of hay, the vast majority of which is fescue/grass hay. Because hay is important to livestock producers of all types, learning to effectively manage a hay crop for higher and better yields is a critical skill. New research from the University of Wisconsin Extension summarizes how to shorten the harvest window, enhance forage quality, and reduce the chance for rain damage.
According to University of Wisconsin Extension publication A3927, “Best Practices to Hasten Field Drying of Grasses and Alfalfa”, there are basic steps to enhance field drying.
Mow to a proper height, which is between 2 and 4 inches for alfalfa and between 3 and 4 inches for grasses (except ryegrasses and bluegrasses).
Condition properly. Mechanical conditioning can nearly double the drying rate. Research has demonstrated that no matter how wide the crop is laid in the swath, conditioning will increase the drying rate most of the time. Properly conditioned legume stems should be scraped or broken every 2 to 4 inches, with less than 5 percent of the leaves being bruised.
Lay hay in a wide swath. It is important to lay the crop out in a wide swath that covers at least 60 percent of the cut area. Wide swaths reduce density, increase exposure to the sun, and increase crop surface temperature-all important factors in rapid drying.
Tedding hay. Commercial hay producers in Kentucky consider tedding an important step to speed drying. Tedding is the process of lifting and throwing the cut crop to improve air flow through the swath. With alfalfa hay, tedding is recommended the morning after cutting just after the dew has dried to reduce leaf loss.
Well timed raking/merging. To minimize leaf loss and soil contamination, merge/rake dry hay when moisture is above 40 percent for alfalfa and 25 percent for grass. To reduce soil contamination, rake with little or no tines touching the ground. This is possible when you have a wide swath and the hay stays on top of the stubble.
Other research-based tips: match the capacity of your harvester or baler. Harvesting less than your capacity reduces energy efficiency, increases labor costs, and damages the stand because of extra wheel traffic. The recommendation for hay under most climatic conditions is to cut one morning after dew leaves the field, ted the next morning, rake the next, and bale when ready. During excellent drying conditions this sequence of steps can be shorter. Commercial hay makers should note that little bleaching will occur in the first 24 hours because rapid water loss prevents heating and bleaching.
For more information, visit www.uk.edu/Ag.Forage and www.uwex,edu/ces/forage or contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service. To purchase, view, or download the full publication from University of Wisconsin Extension, go to: http://learningstore.uwex,edu/.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Bagworm Feeding Underway
Small bagworm larvae have been feeding and growing for about a week and the bags that they carry are getting larger. They are still small and the damage is easy to overlook but now is the time to check for them in the landscape, especially where they were a problem last year.
Bagworms prefer juniper, arborvitae, spruce, pine, and cedar but also attack deciduous trees. They can be controlled but success requires early detection and some persistence to make sure the first application was successful. If only a few small trees or shrubs are infested, handpicking and destroying attached bags may provide satisfactory control. This must be done effective during fall, winter or early spring before the eggs hatch.
When many small bagworms are present and feeding, an insecticide may be needed to prevent serious damage. It is best to treat while the larvae are still small (less than ½-inch long), usually in early June. Small larvae are more vulnerable to insecticides, and feeding damage is relatively minor. Carefully inspect susceptible landscape plants. Young bagworms are hard to see at first; look closely for the small, upright bags which have the appearance of tiny ice cream cones made of bits of plant material.
Control options include products containing Bt, cararyl, neem, pyrethriods, and spinosad sprays.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Rain Causes Late Start to Gardening this Summer
Heavy rains in April and May delayed the home gardening season this year, forcing many gardeners to wait later than usual to plant or transplant seedlings into the garden. And June’s moderate temperatures have continued the early trend of slow growth. But as more sun hits garden plants and accelerates growth, vegetables should begin to flower, develop fruit and, eventually, ripen.
Gardeners should keep an eye on changing weather patterns to ensure their plants receive the right amount of water. Recent high temperatures are good for some vegetables, such as tomatoes, but the heat may wilt other vegetables if they do not receive sufficient water, either from rainfall or irrigation.
To ensure healthy plants and good harvests, gardeners should make sure to irrigate plants when rainfall (roughly 1-inch per week) is insufficient. A water gauge, available at home supply stores, is an easy and inexpensive way to track rainfall totals. This simple tool can help you conserve water, since you’ll know when to turn on the hose and when to leave it off. If you don’t have a rain gauge, you can place an open-faced can, such as a coffee can, near the garden and check to see how much it collects. Be sure to empty the can periodically so that mosquitoes do not breed. You can also stick your finger into the soil to feel how moist or dry it is-water when the soil is dry to the first knuckle. And later in the summer, watch for a reversal of weather conditions, as periods of limited rainfall are a common occurrence in August this September.
Some tips for a bountiful garden:
Use newspapers (a few layers) and grass clippings (from lawn that has not been treated with herbicides), not landscape mulch.
To reduce competition, reduce weeds with compost, black plastic, or hoeing.
Work compost into the ground so that it doesn’t form a hard crust, which can cause rain to run off rather than soak into plants.
Gather produce early in the day, after the early morning dew has dried.
Choose ripe fruits and vegetables that your family will be able to consume in a timely manner.
Consider freezing any extra fruits and vegetables. Many, such as peas, peppers, beans and corn, freeze well. Just rinse, cut into appropriate pieces, and place in a freezer-safe container or bag. (If you want individual pieces of the vegetables, place on a sheet tray lined with parchment to freeze and then transfer to the freezer-safe container or bag when frozen.) You can use extra basil to make into pesto and freeze as well. You can also freeze fresh herbs with water in ice cube trays, a handy way to have “fresh” flavors.
Remove and discard any vegetables that are damaged, blemished, or showing signs of disease or pests. (It’s best to remove these from the garden area. Composting and feeding them to chickens are great ways to get rid of excess vegetables.)
Harvest often to ensure a steady supply of tender and sweet vegetables and to prevent bolting. Allowing vegetables such as broccoli and cabbage to sit on the stem for too long, especially in warm temperatures, results in an unpalatable bitterness. It also gives wildlife and pests too many opportunities to ruin your hard work.
For more information, contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Uneven Growth in Tobacco Fields
Uneven growth of tobacco has been reported in numerous fields. In some fields, plants range in size from nearly 30 inches to less than 6 inches tall. The smaller plants often show signs of nutrient deficiency and may appear to wilt in the heat of the day. When the stunted plants are dug it is often observed that there has been little or no development of new roots from the transplant root ball. New roots if present ar often found to be growing from the buried portion of the stem. In many cases the transplant root ball appears folded and somewhat wedge shaped as if it were jammed in a tight space. The obvious question from most growers is why are some plants severely stunted while others a short distance away seem to be thriving.
The answer to that question is a complex interaction between transplant health, soil conditions, and weather at or just after transplanting. Transplants were held for several weeks during the rainy spring weather resulting in tall sometimes spindly plants that often had varying degrees of Pythium root rot. When the weather finally began to dry, growers were anxious to get started and often began to prepare ground when it was still too wet. Even though the soil appeared dry on the surface it was still quite moist just below the surface. The bottom of the transplanter shoe running in the moist soil may have created a small zone of compacted soil which severely restricted root development from the root ball. In addition stress from high temperatures during early June may have limited the plants’ ability to recover from the setbacks caused by Pythium root rot and soil compaction.
Currently it appears that the stunted plants are recovering as they have begun to develop new roots from the buried stem above the original root ball. The degree of recovery will be very much dependent on the weather conditions. With the majority of the root system very near the soil surface, short term dry spells will be more detrimental and lodging will be a concern as the plants attain a larger size. While many of these plants will survive and perhaps even produce a reasonable yield, the fields will remain very uneven. There is little that can be reasonably done at this stage to help these plants recover. Side dressing, foliar feeding, and irrigation may help to a limited extent to minimize stress, however the stunted plants simply need time to grow new roots.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Beneficial Snakes
Many people fear snakes, but despite the fright they can cause, the majority of snakes are beneficial. Of the 33 varieties of snakes in Kentucky, only four are venomous (Northern copperhead, Western cottonmouth (water moccasin), timber rattlesnake, and pygmy rattlesnake). Most snakes you encounter around your home are harmless. If you are scared of them, try to remember that they are useful-they keep the rodent population in check by eating mice, rats, chipmunks and even toads, insects and other pests.
Summer months increase the possibility for an encounter with a snake, as snakes leave dormancy in the spring to mate. And because people go outside more often in the warm months to enjoy leisure and sporting activities, surprise encounters can happen. When threatened, a snake may coil up and hiss, but generally, its reaction will be to get away from you.
Snakes like damp, dark cool places where food (usually mice) is accessible. They also will be drawn to areas that provide shelter and shade from the summer sun. The best way to get rid of snakes is to modify the habitat that is attracting them. Some recommendations include:
- Stack firewood 12 inches above the ground on a pallet
- Remove lumber or junk piles where snakes could hide
- Trim bushes and shrubs that grow against a foundation
- Keep all lots, fields, and lawns mowed and well kept
- Remove debris and trash from pond and stream banks
- De-clutter basements and attics, especially where rodents can be found
- Keep feed for livestock in covered metal containers to discourage rodents
- Remove pet food after feeding
- Use covered metal cans for trash
You can use glueboards to remove snakes. For longer snakes, you may need to nail several glueboards in succession to a piece of plywood. But remember that the best option for snake removal is to modify the environment so the snakes are not attracted to the area.
For more information, visit http://www/ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/for/for46/for 46.htm or contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Root Mealybug
The trochanter mealybug was found while investigating poor growth in a Lewis Co. soybean field late last week. The symptoms, marginal yellowing and stunting similar to that seen with potassium deficiency, were limited to a very small low-lying portion of a field that had been in grass hay and some clover for the previous 6 years. The infestation consisted mostly of adults and egg sacs. Only a few newly-hatched nymphs were seen.
Infestations of the root-feeding mealybug were discovered during 2008-2009 in Bourbon, Fleming and Lewis counties and on red clover and curly dock roots in Fayette. This sap feeding insect was also found in scattered soybean fields in Ohio, Indiana, and Iowa during that time. This mealybug is something to consider when troubleshooting soybeans showing stunting and yellowing. Carefully dig some plants and examine the roots for the insects and their egg sacs. The trochanter mealybug appears to be widely distributed and associated with previous legumes and reduced tillage.
Infestations of the root-feeding mealybug were discovered on soybeans during 2008-2009 in Bourbon, Fleming, and Lewis counties and on red clover and curly dock roots in Fayette Co. This sap feeding insect was also found in scattered soybean fields in Ohio, Indiana, and Iowa during that time. This mealybug is something to consider when troubleshooting soybeans showing stunting and yellowing. Carefully dig some plants and examine the roots for the insects and their egg sacs. The trochanter mealybug appears to be widely distributed and associated with previous legumes and reduced tillage.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Horse Flies and Deer Flies-Can They Be Controlled?
Female horse flies and deer flies slash the skin with blade-like mouthparts to create small pools of blood where they feed. Both groups of these closely related flies can be serious pests of cattle, horses, and humans. Horse flies range in size from ¾ to 1-1/4 inches long and usually have clear or solidly colored wings and brightly colored eyes. Deer flies, which are more likely to bite humans, are smaller with dark bands across the wings and colored eyes similar to those of horse flies.
Attack by these persistent flies can make outdoor work and recreation miserable. Seldom thwarted, they attack persistently to get enough blood to make a batch of eggs. The numbers of flies and the intensity of their attack vary from year to year. Numerous painful bites from large populations can interrupt grazing and result in violent efforts by the animals to try to stop or escape from the attacks. In addition to blood loss, these biting flies can transmit anaplasmosis on contaminated mouthparts.
Vision is a key factor in host-finding by these insects. Female horse flies and deer flies feed during the day, responding by sight from their resting spots to large, dark moving objects within their range. While body temperature, CO2, and other chemicals released by animals may play a role in the final decision to bite, the long range attraction means that insecticides or repellents play no role in protection until the fly lands.
Pyrethrins and pyrethroids have an irritating effect on insects buy may not be a full strength or effective enough to interrupt feeding until after the painful skin cut has been made. In addition, only the flies’ feet are in contact with a treated surface so the insect will bite and may et its meal before becoming irritated enough to move.
Several types of traps are sold for horse fly control. They may have some effect in protecting animals in a relatively small space but the impact is likely to be reduced in large pastures.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Stinging Caterpillars
Medium to large caterpillars are tasty morsels for predators. Some rely on camouflage to keep fromb being seen. Tthose that can protect themselves, stinging caterpillars for example, stay in plain sight and advertise with bright or distinctive markings. They are covered with sharp, brittle bristles that break off and stick in the skin like so many cactus spines. Unfrotunately, that's not all, the bristles are hollow and contain an irritating substance that produces a very unpleasant skin reaction.
Saddlebacks are relatively common in Kentucky, and are mong the most venomous species in North America. A full grown caterpillar is brownish red, about 1.25 inches long, and has several distinctive characteristics which include two fleshy horns studded with spines on each end and shorter armed bumps along both sides. the back carries a bright green "blanket" trimmed in white, with brown-to-purple central spot or "saddle," also trimmed in white. Saddlebacks occur on many plants including apple, basswood, cherry, chestnut, dogwood, elm, maple, oak, plum, and even corn. They are most abundant at this time of year.
A brush with a saddleback results in immediate pain followed by swelling and blistering if the spines are not removed. The irritation should be gone in 8 hours or less if the spines are removed. They can be stripped with cellophane or adhesivwe duct tape. Wash the area with soap and water and apply an ice pack to relieve the irritation. Contact a physican if the irritation does not subside or if other symptoms appear.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Fall: The Third Gardening Season
Late summer and fall offer a third growing season for the home gardener, though both new and experienced gardeners often overlook the opportunity to extend the bounty of the home garden by. Spring gardening is marked by relief that winter is over, with the anticipation of warmer weather. Summer gardening brings its own joys, with longer days and the natural cycle of rain and sun that helps plants yield ripe, delicious fruits and vegetables. But with some planning, fall can provide just as much enjoyment as spring and summer, and you can extend the harvest well into the cooler months.
One of the benefits of continuing with a fall garden is that you have already worked and prepared the planting site and soil, so the hard part of preparing for planting normally done in the spring is over. The ground has been worked, weeds are under control, and fertilizer and mulch are already distributed. You may need to add a bit more nitrogen for later plantings of vegetables, but otherwise everything is in place, and you are working in a rhythm.
Fall vegetables are harvested in early September. The first leg of your fall garden can be part of your summer succession gardening plan. Succession gardening staggers the ripening date and harvest so you have a steady flow of fresh food, rather than an overwhelming flood of vegetables that sometimes go to waste. Good options for a late succession planting include an early-maturing variety of sweet corn and bush beans. The second leg of the fall crop consists of cool-season crops that grow well during cool fall days and withstand frost, such as turnips and parsnips.
Keep in mind that although days continue to be warm, nights are cool, which slows growth and maturation. When buying seed for fall planting, remember to check the average days to maturity. Select varieties with shorter maturation periods. Because we have warm days and cool nights during a typical Kentucky autumn, some vegetables, such as sweet corn and cole crops, thrive, developing excellent levels of sugar and crispness.
The fall garden can include:
- Root vegetables: beets, carrots, rutabaga, parsnips, turnips
- Tender lettuces: bibb, endive, leaf lettuce
- Hearty greens: collards, kale, mustard greens, spinach, and turnip greens
- Cole crops: broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, Chinese cabbage
- Other vegetables: bush-type green beans, snow peas, sweet corn, kohlrabi
Gardeners who want a lengthy harvest can use polyethylene row covers in the fall to extend the harvest of frost-sensitive crops such as tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. The row cover traps heat and protects the plant from killing frosts but beware that on warm, sunny days the row cover must be ventilated to protect plants from excess heat. Some plants, such as herbs, can be planted in containers and brought inside or moved to a protected area when there are hard frosts. You can use cold frames in much the same way, with the cover propped open during the day so the plants receive light, and closed at night. Using any combination of these methods can extend your gardening season by several weeks, well into the fall.
For more information, review “Home Vegetable Gardening in Kentucky, http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id128/id128.pdf, or contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Up Coming Events
Don’t forget about the following events in the county this week. The 2011 Lewis County Field Day will take place on September 22, 1011 at the Wayne Clark Farm in Garrison 8 miles East of Vanceburg on Route 8. Registration will be from 5:30-6:00 P.M. SOMC and the Lewis Co. Cancer Coalition will be set up to offer free Sugar Testing, Cholesterol Testing and Free Male Cancer Screening. Supper will follow the tours. The 2011 Field Day will be brought to you by the Lewis County Extension Office and the Lewis County Conservation District. Lewis County Vegetable Producers are proud to host the 10th Annual Harvest Day at the Farmers’ Market on September 24, 2011 starting at 8:00 A.M. Come enjoy all the fun. There will be fresh produce, homemade crafts, quilts, apple pie contest, 4-H pumpkin contest, antique tractors, and a 4-H country ham auction.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Use Conservation Practices and Good Planning to Meet Winter Hay Needs
Hay availability in Kentucky may be short this winter because of multiple, compounded issues .Due to weather events—last year’s drought and this year’s early record rainfall—both hay quality and yield are down. It is important to protect the hay crop you have and use it wisely—that smart conservation and planning will help make hay last longer through the winter.
The variability of yield, quality and number of cuttings indicate the hay supply could get tight. To ensure an adequate amount, farmers should enact several measures. Store hay inside a barn, where it will remain dry. Remember to store hay in barns that have access in all types of weather. If that is not feasible, cover with a tarp to protect it from the elements. Buy hay by the ton if at all possible and require certified stamped weight.
Farmers should get their hay tested by the Kentucky Department of Agriculture to determine if they need to buy additional hay. Testing is the first step to knowing how much will be necessary to meet the nutritional needs of the animals they feed, from horses to cattle to goats.
Hay is tested primarily for crude protein, acid detergent fiber (ADF), neutral detergent fiber (NDF), total digestible nutrients (TDV), and relative feed value (RFV). For more information, refer to University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service publication “Interpreting Forage Quality Reports,” at http://www.uky.edu/Ag/AnimalSciences/pubs/id101.pdf .
Hay is typically fed from mid-December until mid-March, approximately 110 days, though that will vary due to weather, pasture conditions, and the needs of different animals. To reduce waste, get hay, whether round or square bales, off the ground, either by using pallets, feeders, or hay carts. This simple step can reduce wasted hay by almost half. If that is impossible, feed in long rows so hay is consumed immediately, rather than leaving a round bale out for animals to pick at. They will consume the center of the round bale, which has remained dry and protected, first, and that judicious eating will greatly increase waste.
To determine hay needs:
- Calculate the number of days animals will need feed.
- Weigh a random sample of bales so you know the average weight of your bales, using scales at feed mills or truck stops.
- With the results of the hay test, calculate how many pounds each animal will need daily.
- Arrive at a grand total of how much hay the herd will require over the winter.
Forward planning and good management practices will help ensure an adequate hay supply during the winter. Because hay is a commodity whose price is driven by supply and demand, it is unlikely that prices will be lower in the coming months, so if you do not have enough, you should buy it now, before more buyers move into the market. A tight supply, plus possible hay purchases from bordering states, may possibly elevate what are already high prices. Straw is also likely to be expensive.
For more information, review University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service publication “Quality Hay Production,” http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/agr/agr62/agr62.pdf, or contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
2011 Field Day
The 2011 Lewis County Field Day was a huge success. The event took place at the Wayne Clark Farm in Garrison. Over 100 people participated in the event. A health fair was on site where farmers could get free cholesterol, sugar, men’s health screening, and get a flu shot. Farmers also learned about soybean production: no-till vs. conventional tillage, weed control, and insect control. A special thanks to the Clark Family, Lewis County Extension, Lewis County Conservation District, Lewis County Cancer Coalition, and Lewis County Health Department for making this event possible.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Winter Feeding Areas for Livestock
As we move closer to cold weather, it is a good time to think about strategies for winter feeding of livestock, since it is a necessary part of nearly all operations. Choosing the right place for winter feeding can improve production and reduce threats to nearby water resources. A poorly chosen site for winter feeding can have negative impacts on soil and water quality.
A significant amount of pollution can occur if winter feeding is conducted around streams, water bodies or other environmentally sensitive areas such as flood plains and creek bottoms. Storm-water runoff from these areas can carry mud and manure into nearby water bodies, creating water quality problems. If these contaminants can be traced to a specific operation, the owner could be subject to fines from regulatory agencies.
To reduce water pollution and avoid fines, producers can follow a few simple steps. First, place winter feeding areas in well-drained locations. These areas should not allow runoff containing mud and manure to drain into neighboring properties, streams or sinkholes. The farther away a feeding area is from surface or ground water resources, the less likely water pollution is to occur.
Next, producers should consider using confined winter feeding that allows cattle to access a structure or paddock for feeding and then return to a larger forage pasture. Smaller “sacrifice” pastures reduce the area damaged from winter feeding and can be used as central hubs for multiple pastures as part of a rotational grazing system. By placing water and mineral supplements away from the structure, cattle will be enticed to eat in the structure and then move out and way. The volume of manure will be easier to manage because the animals will spread it throughout the fields.
Finally, heavy-use area pads around winter feeding areas can greatly reduce mud and rutting from tractor and hoof traffic. These pads are constructed using geotextile fabric, crushed stone and dense grade aggregate.
By making these considerations for winter feeding of livestock, producers can greatly reduce the potential to contaminate water resources and can improve production.
For more information, contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Phase 1 Cost Share Now Open
Application for the 2011 cost share program is available for pick up at the Extension Office or the Conservation Office. They are due in by November 30, 2011 by 4:30 P.M. Just a reminder there are two big changes in the program this time: you can only receive $3,000 in cost share; the other is you can only backdate 6 months from the day you get approved.
The application is a menu program and it will cover the following: Agricultural Diversification, Cattle Genetics Improvement, Cattle Handling, Commercial Poultry, Dairy, & Swine, Farm Fencing Improvement, Farm Structure & Commodity Handling, Farmland Improvement & Utilization, Goat & Sheep Diversification, On-farm Energy Efficiency & Production, On-farm Water Enhancement, Technology & Leadership Development. You may select from only three areas. A complete list of cost share items is available at the office when you pick up your application or you may look on the web at www.agpolicy.ky.gov.
When you get approved you will have 9 months to complete your project and turn receipts in. All cost share is on a 50% basis. Meaning if you spend $6,000 you will receive $3,000. If you have any questions please feel free to call me at 796-2732 or Sharon Thomas at 796-3866 ext. 3.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Regional Health Management Horse Progam
The University of Kentucky Equine Group is Hosting a regional health management program on December 13th beginning at 6:00 P.M. The meeting will be at the Mason County Extension Office. The program highlights the newest methods of deworming and other health management issues. If you are a horse owner or an enthusiast don’t miss this opportunity to join us. For more information call 796-2732.
Seedstock Producers Need to Address Johne’s Disese
Johne;s Disease is an untreatable disease of diarrhea and weight loss in adult cows caused by the bacteria Mycobacterium ovium subsp. paratuberculosis or commonly referred to as “MAP”. These are very hardy bacteria with a protective cell wall that can withstand harsh conditions and survive longer than a year in the environment. Once an animal is infected with MAP, the organism lives permanently within the cells of the large intestine where it multiplies and is then”shed” in the feces in large numbers. This is a slow, progressive disease that generally infects calves less than 6 months old but the clinical signs of weight loss and diarrhea do not show up until 2-3 years of age and sometimes later. Therefore, as seedstock operators, it is easy to buy and sell animals with no obvious problems even though they are already infected with MAP. The disease progresses through three distinct stages:
Stage 1: Young cattle (usually less than two years of age) are infected but show no signs of
disease and are not shedding the organism in their manure.
Stage 2: Older heifers and young adult cattle are infected and shedding MAP but no signs
of disease are noticed. These animals are a major hidden source of environmental
contamination.
Step 3: Adult cattle, typically 3-5 years old, are infected, shedding the organism, and
showing clinical signs of intermittent, watery manure. These animals lose weight
and drop in milk production but continue to have a good appetite. Some will
appear to recover but relapse during times of stress. These animals can shed
billions of MAP organisms that contaminate the environment.
In a typical herd, for every animal in stage 3, there are many other cattle in earlier stages of the disease. With early diagnosis and prevention of spread, Johne’s Disease will not develop into a significant herd problem five to ten years in the future. For these reasons, buyers of breeding livestock should strive to purchase animals that are not MAP infected. Similarly, seedstock producers should anticipate this request and establish laboratory testing evidence of the MAP infection status of their herds.
Seedstock herd owners are commonly reluctant to test for Johne’s Disease for fear that a positive diagnosis will ruin their reputation. However, a herd’s reputation may be damaged much more severely by selling a MAP-infected animal to a customer and introducing this contagious, incurable disease into his or her herd. The US Voluntary Bovine Johne’s Disease Control Program specifies the testing requirements to officially classify the herd from Test Negative Level 1 (lowest) up to Level 6 (highest). The more years of testing following this consistent regimen will yield greater confidence and knowledge of the true Johne’s status of the herd.
So how do you begin? A screening test of all animals at least 2 years of age, such as the Johne’s ELISA test for antibodies in serum, is rapid and low cost but not 100% accurate. Any positive animals on ELISA should be confirmed by detection of the MAP organism in the feces by polymerase chain reaction (PCR). Both of these tests are abailable at the UK Veterinary Diagnostic Laboratory (for more information, visit our website: vdl.uky.edu). Animals found positive must be removed from the herd promptly. Testing and culling over multiple years along with good herd management will lead to zero or low MAP test prevalence in your herd.
Contact your local veterinarian to find out more about the official Johne’s Disease Control Program.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Holiday Plant Care
Floral symbols of the upcoming holiday season are appearing all over town. Poinsettias, cacti, ornamental peppers and other seasonal plans are putting on a spectacular show in stores and garden centers.
You can maintain beautiful plants long after the holidays by selecting high-quality specimens and properly caring for them.
Poinsettias are the most popular potted plant with annual sales exceeding 70 million. These plants are available in many colors. In addition to the traditional reds, poinsettias come in white, pink, yellow, marbled and speckled. These spectacular plant colors are not flowers; instead, they are modified leaves, often called “bracts.” Actual flowers are the small, yellow blossoms in the center of the bracts.
There is an advantage to the fact that the attractive part isn’t a true flower because most flowers are short-lived. However, poinsettia bracts are very long-lasting, providing a nice decorative plant for the ever-extending holiday season.
When buying poinsettias, select plants with abundant dark green foliage all the way down the stems. Remember that varieties with lighter-colored or mottled bracts typically also have lighter green foliage. Bracts should be well developed with little pollen on the flowers. Look for durable plants with stiff stems, good bract and leaf retention and absence of wilting, breaking or drooping. Plants should be attractive and balanced from all sides.
Plants with pale green, yellow or fallen leaves generally have a root disease, were over-watered, had an excessive dry period, or received insufficient fertilizer.
Low temperatures, even for a brief period, can damage leaves and bracts. So if you’re transporting when outside temperatures are below 35 degrees Fahrenheit, be sure the plant is well wrapped when transporting it. When you get home, promptly remove the protective sleeve to prevent a downward bending of leaf stems.
Since poinsettias thrive in at least six hours of indirect, natural light daily, put plants in a southern, eastern or western facing window when you get home. Don’t let any part touch the cold window pane because this might injure the plant part. Keep plants out of cold drafts and away from excessive heat or dry air to prolong vibrant colors and prevent premature leaf drop.
An ideal daytime temperature is between 67 and 70 degrees F. One of the best things you can do for a poinsettia is to drop the temperature by about 10 degrees at night.
Always remove damaged or diseased leaves.
Poinsettias require moderately moist soil, but should not be over-watered as this can make plants quickly succumb to several soil-borne diseases. Check plant water needs daily by putting your finger into the soil down to the middle knuckle. If you feel moisture, wait another day to check again before watering.
Never let the plant stand in water. Pour off water that accumulates in the saucer or dish under the pot and remove the pot from the cellophane cover when watering.
Fertilize the poinsettia every couple of weeks with an ordinary houseplant food.
The Christmas cactus makes a wonderful gift because it’s easy to grow and is an attractive plant even when not flowering. It prefers rich, well-drained soil and requires bright sunlight, a south window is excellent, and moderate moisture levels. To ensure flowering, keep the plant quite dry, unfertilized and at cooler temperatures (about 55 degrees F) if possible. Once flower buds are evident, return to normal watering, but not fertilizer.
Your cactus will reward you at Christmastime with blossoms up to two-inches long in colors ranging from a deep purple to pale salmon.
Remove the spent cactus booms as they fade and apply a houseplant fertilizer when blooming is complete.
Ornamental (Christmas) peppers are a relative newcomer to the holiday plant gift list and are becoming a popular home and office decoration. Their fruits are a colorful holiday red that will remain at peak color for one to two months. The fruit will be brighter and last longer if you provide bright light, mild temperatures (65 to 70 degrees F) and moist soil. Use a soluble fertilizer weekly.
Beware that Christmas peppers sometimes are extremely hot and can cause burning, redness and skin irritation. The extent of irritation depends on how much capsaicin, an irritating compound that provides the pungent odor, is in the pepper and how long it contacted the skin.
To prevent possible skin problems, wear gloves when working with Christmas peppers. If you develop skin irritation, wash your hands well in warm water and soap. However, some capsaicin might remain on your hands for several hours. Washing your hands in alcohol or soaking them in vegetable oil might help remove some of the capsaicin, but the best approach is to prevent exposure by wearing gloves.
Since the Christmas pepper is an annual, it won’t bloom again until next year so it’s best to discard the plant after fruit drop.
For more information on holiday plant care, contact your Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Orchids Make Popular Houseplants
Orchids are becoming increasingly popular as houseplants. One orchid you are likely to encounter is the Phalaenopsis, or moth orchid. It gets its name from the shape of the flower that resembles a moth in flight.
Moth orchids thrive in medium light. A window with southern exposure is ideal. You will notice that the pot is filled with a bark-type potting mix. In nature, these plants grow on trees, so they need a potting medium that is light and well drained-regular potting soil si not appropriate. The roots are fleshy and covered with a white spongy material. They may grow into the potting mix, around the pot or simply out into the air. This is natural and healthy for the plant.
Water plants thoroughly once the soil has become light and dry. Allow some water to flow through the pot at each watering-be sure to remove the inner pot to the sink when you are watering and allow the pot to thoroughly drain before you place it back into the outer (often decorative) pot. You may also water by placing a few ice cubes on the surface of the potting medium a couple of times each week, just be sure that the plant does not sit in water for more than a few hours. Liquid fertilizer can be applied with the water every two or three applications-follow label directions for how to dilute the fertilizer.
Plants may flower for many months, and individual flowers may last for several weeks. Do not cut the flower stalk back after flowers fade because in a few months it may branch to form additional flowers. Small plantlets may arise on the flower stalk. These plantlets can be potted up, but they will need to grow for a couple of years before they will flower.
For more information on orchids and other houseplants, please contact the Lewis County Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Gardening Class
It is the start of a new year and it will soon be time to start thinking about the garden you are going to grow this season. On January 31, 6:00 P.M. there will be a gardening class that will deal with Growing More with Less Space. We will be talking about raised beds, intercropping and succession planting. This class is open to anyone that wants to learn more about gardening. If you have any questions about the class please feel free to call the Extension Office at 796-2732.
Horse Owners/Operators Needed for Kentucky Equine Survey
A looming deadline is near for all horsemen in Kentucky: February 17th. This is the last day when Kentucky horse owners can provide their name and contact information for sample surveys that will estimate the number of horses in Kentucky by county, breed, and use. The Kentucky Equine Survey happens this year, and the survey team hopes to receive at least 17,000 names and addresses for the survey.
Kentucky proclaims itself “Horse Capital of the World”, yet it has been 35 years since there was an accurate count of the total number of equine in the state. All horse, pony, mule, and/or donkey owners and operators in the state are urged to participate in this upcoming survey.
This important information will become available as the University of Kentucky, University of Louisville, Kentucky Horse Council, and National Agricultural Statistics Service (NASS) conduct a statewide equine study beginning in the summer of 2012. Results include a county-level estimate of the number of all breeds of horses, ponies, donkeys, and mules, and their uses, as well as the economic impact of equine-related activity across Kentucky.
In order to ensure that each breed and discipline is accurately represented, NASS needs a complete list of horse owners and horse operation owners across the state. Horsemen are being asked to help build this list by sending their contact information directly to NASS. NAS protects this data, and no other agency, public or private, can access any individual’s information. This means the submitted information will not be used anywhere else or shard with any other organization, including those leading the survey. The NASS confidentiality plede can be found at www.nass.usda.gov.
Horse and facility owners, please send your name, address, and phone number to nass-ky@nass.usda.gov and put “Kentucky Equine Survey” in the subject line. Or you can go to www.kentuckyhorse.org/KES-names/ and complete the form, which will be sent directly to NASS.
AGAIN, THE DEADLINE FOR THIS INFORMATION IS FEB. 17, 2012.
With everyone’s help and participation, we will know by early 2012 how many horses there are in Kentucky, by type, use, and county, and what the overall economic impact is to the Commonwealth. This information will be used to strengthen the industry and provide a benchmark for Kentucky’s agricultural economy and its signature equine industry.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Septic Systems
Septic systems are used in Kentucky where municipal sewage treatment is not available. They are an effective, long-standing method of collecting, treating and disposing of homeowner wastewater, provided they are properly sited and installed. However, a well-sited, properly sized and installed system will fail if not properly maintained. A failed septic system creates problems such as noxious odors, lower property values, surface water contamination and groundwater pollution and may be a health hazard. Repair and replacement costs are considerable.
Pumping the septic tank regularly is probably the single most important thing you can do to protect the system. You should remove the solids that settle out in the tank every three to six years depending on water usage and the amount of inorganic materials entering the system. A guide to follow with a 1,000-gallon tank is to pump every three years for a household of four or more people and pump every six years for one with two people (increase times by one-half for 1,500-gallon tanks).
You also can determine when you need to pump by opening the top of the tank and making some measurements and observations. Never inspect a tank alone, and never go down into a tank. Toxic gases are produced by the natural treatment processes in the tank and can kill quickly. Pump the tank when the sludge layer at the bottom of the tank is 18 inches deep or the scum layer thickens to within 3 inches of the outlet baffle or sanitary tee outlet.
Solids should be removed by a certified tank pumper and disposed of in an approved manner and location. Be sure that the pumper removes all of the material in the tank. It is not necessary to leave some sludge to “restart” the biological processes; nor is it necessary to scrub or disinfect the tank.
Beware of products or household systems that can damage or reduce the effectiveness of the septic system. Reducing garbage disposal use reduces the amount of solids going to the septic tank. Households with garbage disposal units produce about double the solids as those without such units.
The scum layer on top of the wastewater in the septic tank is primarily made up of oils, fats and grease from the kitchen. When homeowners use hot water to flush grease or fat down the drain, it may pass through the tank directly into the drain field lines where it can rapidly clog soil pores.
Placing even small quantities of pesticides, paint thinners, solvents, drain cleaners, poisons and other harsh household chemicals into the septic system can kill the microbes in the tank and drain field that decompose solids and purify the wastewater.
Unfortunately, some organic solutions are not treated in the septic tank and can flow directly into the drain field where they are not effectively treated by the soil before reaching the groundwater.
You need a generic groundwater protection plan for all septic systems in Kentucky, which you may find at your local county extension office, local libraries and most local health departments. Questions related to these plans should be addressed to the Kentucky Division of Water.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Special Local Need Label for Use of Quadris on Greenhouse-Grown Tobacco Approved
Kentucky’s burley tobacco producers have dealt with some pretty serious cases of target spot in greenhouses and outdoor float beds. Severe levels of target spot on seedlings can be costly in terms of delayed development, and can also lead to the introduction of the target spot pathogen in the field. Managing target spot effectively involves good management practices, such as ensuring that plants are well-ventilated, adequately fertilized, and treated with fungicides where appropriate. Mancozeb fungicides (Dithane DF or Manzate ProStick) can be used on a 5-7 day schedule, beginning around 2-3 weeks after seeding (when seedlings are dime-sized or larger), to suppress target spot. Although Mancozeb is not specifically labeled for target spot, it is reasonably suppressive when applied preventively.
Good-to-excellent control of target spot can be achieved with Quadris fungicide. Effective now through December 31, 2012, growers can make ONE application of Quadris at a rate of 6 fl oz/A to tobacco seedlings in greenhouses or outdoor float beds. This is the equivalent of 0.14 fl oz (4 cc) of product per thousand square feet of float bed (roughly 400 trays), applied in a spray volume of 5 gallons-enough to get good coverage of foliage. For best control of target spot, we recommend making the Quadris application before symptoms are seen (or when they first appear at the very latest). In most years, target spot becomes active in Kentucky in late April or early May. To get ahead of the disease, a good strategy would be to apply Quadris after the 1st or 2nd clipping. After making the Quadris treatment, producers should switch back to mancozeb until plants are set in the field. This is critical to stay in compliance with the label, and to minimize the risk of resistance development. Quadric is most likely compatible with products like mancozeb or Orthene, but it would be advisable not to mix Quadris and agricultural streptomycin to avoid potential injury to seedlings. In terms of weathering, Quadris is rainfast within an hour or two of treatment.
In cases where target spot is severe on float plants, treatment with Quadris may be needed at about 5-6 weeks after setting to suppress the disease in the field. For more information on using Quadris on tobacco after transplanting, consult the 2011-2012 Kentucky-Tennessee Tobacco Production Guide (University of Kentucky Publication ID-160).
It’s important that growers who use Quadris in the greenhouse or outdoor float bed have a copy of the 24(c) label in their possession. This label can be obtained from farm chemical suppliers or online at http://www.cdms.net/LDat/ld5QN006.pdf. It is equally important to remember that the greenhouse application counts toward the seasonal limit (4-5 applications) allowed on tobacco.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Hay Production
Hay producers: Are you having trouble with weeds in your fields and would like to know how to get them under control? A meeting will be held on April 12th at the Lewis County Extension Office at 6:00 P.M. to discuss late season weed control. If you have any questions please call the Extension Office at 796-2732.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Grain Marketing Meeting
ADM will be holding a regional grain marketing meeting on April 26, 2012 beginning at 7:30 P.M. at the Mason Co. Extension Office. The meeting will be discussing marketing grain and different opportunities for producers to market grain. James Gentry, ADM Location Manager in Silver Grove, will be presenting the program. This would be a great opportunity to gain information about marketing opportunities for producers. For more information call 796-2732.
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Moving Houseplants Outside; Good Care of Hanging Baskets
Moving houseplants outside in late spring or early summer is good for them; they get better air circulation and light exposure. This also is a good time to repot your container-bound plants.
Wait to move plants outdoors until at least mid- to late-May, or when the weather is consistently warm. Since most houseplants have a tropical origin, temperatures below 40 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit might damage them.
Even if you know a particular plant prefers high-light conditions, don’t immediately put it or any houseplants in direct sunlight outdoors because they will need time to adjust to a higher light intensity. Instead, gradually increase the amount plants receive by first moving them under a covered patio or large shade tree for seven to 10 days. If you notice foliage bleaching or burning, reduce the amount of sunlight for another week or so before moving a plant to a more intense light location.
As your houseplants receive more light, most will require more water and will benefit from increased application of a general-purpose, houseplant fertilizer.
To test soil moisture, stick your finger into the first few inches of soil; if it feels dry, water the plant. When applying fertilizer, always follow the label instructions for the amount of fertilizer and water to use and application frequency.
It’s a good idea to check for pest problems on your houseplants outdoors so you can control the situation before it gets out of hand. Always read pesticide label directions to be sure the product is labeled for your houseplants. Insecticidal soap is an environmentally-friendly, effective product that will take care of most houseplant pests.
Hanging Baskets
If that hanging basket plant you got for Mother’s Day has the doldrums, a regular diet of plant food and water will rejuvenate it in no time.
Inadequate fertility is a common problem in hanging baskets because plants eventually use all fertilizer in the soil. Most hanging baskets need to be fertilized every one to two weeks during the peak growing season. Use a houseplant fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s recommended level.
Hanging baskets also need to be frequently watered. How often depends on how much shade and rainfall they receive. Some baskets need water every day or every other day, while others might need water only every three to four days. Check soil moisture to a depth of several inches with your finger.
Regardless of how often you water a hanging basket, be sure to do it thoroughly so you see water dripping from drainage holes.
You can rejuvenate hanging baskets by cutting back leggy plants. Pruning one-third to one-half the stem length will force new growth, causing plants to branch out more and flower again. Adequate fertility is critical in this situation because removing stems eliminates nutrients stored in plant tissues.
To learn more about home and garden topics, visit or contact the Lewis Cooperative Extension Service.
Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Interpreting and using Expected Progeny Differences (EPD)
With a little understanding, Expected Progeny Differences, or EPD, may actually be the best tool producers have to address the genetics of their herds.
While calculating EPD takes a lot of math, producers don’t have to do the math; they just need to understand the answers. The calculation results usually appear in the first pages of a sire summary before the actual EPD tables. They may look a little confusing, but the information is very beneficial. It comes down to the fact that you are buying the DNA of a particular animal.
The breed average EPD provide a benchmark for you to compare animals. They are averages for the animals included in that run of genetic evaluation. Many associations split the breed averages into those for proven sires, young sires, dams, non-parents, etc. Take note though, breeds traditionally had a base year where the EPD were set to zero, so any difference from zero represents a difference from the base year. Recently some breeds have varied from the base-year idea, and so it’s not as easy to determine what zero means across all breeds.
EPD values are divided up into several types. Growth traits EPD are the standards for all breeds including birth weight, weaning weight, milk, yearling weight and height, total maternal and mature weight and height. Reproductive trait EPD include scrotal circumference, gestation length, calving ease direct, calving ease maternal and heifer pregnancy. Carcass trait EPD include carcass weight, rib eye area, fat thickness, marbling, retail product, yield grade, tenderness, ultrasound and percent intramuscular fat. Some other EPD trait inclusions are stay ability, as an indicator of bulls’ daughters longevity in the cow herd; maintenance energy, which refers to the energy a cow needs to maintain herself; docility, a measure of the behavior of bulls’ calves as they leave the chute; and pulmonary arterial pressure, which provides an indicator of longevity in the cowherd.
As a breeder, you must ultimately set your own selection criteria. You might think the simplest thing would be to just pick the highest EPD and believe they are the best. But it’s not that simple. Some traits have higher heritability than others, and you have to decide what’s most important to you.
Some things you can’t rely on EPD for include comparing bulls and cows from different herds or comparing bulls and cows of different breeds. Links to several breed associations are listed below to use for breed-specific questions.
American Angus Association - http://www.angus.org
American-International Charolais Association – http://www.charolaisusa.com
American Gelbvieh Association – http://www.gelbvieh.org
American Hereford Association – http://www.hereford.org
North American Limousin Foundation – http://www.nalf.org
Red Angus Association of America – http://www.redangus.org
American Salers Assocation – http://www.salersusa.org
Amercian Shorthorn Association – http://www.beefshorthornusa.com
American Simmental Association – http://www.simmgene.com
For more information, contact the Lewis Cooperative Extension Service. Educational programs of the Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin.
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.