Care of Silver
Silver, when properly cared for, will last and yield generations of enjoyment. Constant use keeps silver bright and shiny. Daily use not only enriches family dining but enhances its beauty. In time, sterling will acquire a lustrous patina which is tiny scratches and chafe as it’s used and washed. This is a normal and natural part of silver’s character. Silver is one of the things in your home that thrives on use.
If your service is larger than what you use daily, rotate pieces to prevent tarnish and to achieve the same patina on all pieces.
Foods tarnishing or staining can be classified into silver sulfide types and silver chloride types. The former is the typical tarnish which is caused by eggs, food greases or salad dressings with egg and certain vegetables with high sulfur content. The latter silver chloride type is associated with salty foods, vinegar, milk and all milk products, fruit and juices, tomatoes and tomato products and butter. These are the etching foods.
Wool felt, bleached flannel, fossil fuels, rubber, latex gloves, lemon scented detergent, and certain paints will also cause tarnish.
Tarnish is accelerated in a humid environment. Oily salts from our skin will cause corrosion if not removed and may need to be professionally buffed.
Silver sulfide tarnish can be removed with silver polishes. However, the heavier the tarnish, the more abrasive action needed and a paste type polish will have to be applied.
Chloride stains or etches, if removed immediately, may not cause damage, but if allowed to remain on the surface will etch (pit) the metal and this is where buffing is necessary. This is why it is important to rinse and wash food residue off sterling as soon as possible.
Washing Silver
Wash immediately after use with a mild phosphate-free detergent (not lemon-scented as the acid will harm the silver and no chlorides) in hot water. Detergents, with their chemicals, can cause damage if used in the wrong amounts or applied directly on the silver or not rinsed properly. Minute particles can cause pitting. To avoid scratching or denting your silver, line the bottom of the sink with a kitchen towel. Rinse well in hot water and dry thoroughly with a soft towel while the silver is still warm.
Never wash sterling or silverplate and stainless together as the hardness of the stainless can scratch the softness of the silver. In a dishwasher, if they touch, it will create a chemical reaction that will leave black spots on the silver. Don’t let your knife blades touch your silver. Wash knives separately. Don’t throw forks in the dish pan with other pieces, tines gouge and nick pieces.
Do not soak sterling, especially knives, as it might loosen the handles.
Store only after silver has cooled.
Weighted pieces (filled bases) must never be immersed in water.
Silver that is used, washed properly and dried immediately will seldom need polishing.
Some companies suggest that one may wash silver in the dishwasher, but take it out after the rinse cycle. Most antique silver authorities do not recommend this as the detergents are too harsh and can scratch the silver. Also, any factory applied oxidation - black patina - will be removed leaving a dull surface, and the high heat can damage hollow-handled knives. New sterling will get brown spots after washing in the dishwasher. This is caused by alloys of 7-1/2% which include copper. In the dishwasher there is a reaction that can occur between the very hot water droplets and the small portion of copper at the surface. After silver is washed several times this may disappear.
Wax Removal
The most successful way to remove wax, especially on weighted candlesticks, is to use a hair dryer. Warm the candle cup or other area (not too hot) and remove with paper towels. On unweighted candlesticks, they can be put in the freezer. Upon removing, use your fingernail to chip off the wax.
Tarnish Removal & Polishing
Sometimes tarnishing is unavoidable. It is easily removed when first noticed (a yellowish tint) but is more difficult as it turns brown and black. Remember when you polish silver, you not only remove tarnish, but also remove some silver metal.
To restore your silver’s lovely sheen:
Always use soft cloths - no new bleached flannel to polish your silver
Closely follow the instructions of your polish
Avoid all-purpose metal or dip cleaners
Avoid using toothpastes, they may contain baking soda or other ingredients which are too abrasive for your silver.
Don’t overrub your silver. As you polish, use as little polish as possible and briskly rub each piece lengthwise - never crosswise or in a circular motion. A dry horsehair brush can be used to remove dried polish and grime from crevices and ornamentation.
There are many polishes (liquid, sprays, and creams) and cleaners on the market. For mild tarnish use less abrasive such as the sprays, foams and washes. You will need the creams and cleaners for heavy tarnishing as they contain more abrasives. Some cleaners contain tarnish preventive qualities. Many authorities don’t recommend using them for the preventative can cause a build up that will affect the luster of your silver.
Polishes that are meant to be washed are less abrasive because they use a liquid to suspend the polishing ingredients. Don’t use polishes that have dried up as the abrasive particles are too concentrated and will harm silver.
Apply polishes with a wet cellulose sponge. Rinse the sponge regularly as elements in tarnish can be very abrasive. If you wear gloves choose Nitrite. The contain no rubber or latex.Use rouge clothes or silver wipes to restore the original luster to silver which has been dulled by tarnish.
Sometimes after cleaning silver a purplish stain remains. This is oxidized copper (called firescale) and can be found on many colonial through nineteenth century pieces. It is generally not seen on pieces made after the 1800's. This is not tarnish, and trying to remove it will only damage your antique.
Chemical dips work by dissolving the tarnish on an object fast. Never use unless the black tarnish can’t be removed any other way. Use with a cotton ball or cellulose sponge. Submerging for a long period will pit the silver and remove factory-applied patinas. Dips are made of an acid and complexing agent that contain thiourea, a cancer-causing chemical. This colorless and odorless chemical can be absorbed through the skin and can be harmful to breath. Work in a well ventilated area and wear proper gloves. If you choose to use them, don’t use on any object where the dip can penetrate sealed components, such as candlesticks or hollow handles. This is not a recommended method of cleaning.
Electrochemical (galvanic) reduction is a process that uses aluminum foil, pan plate or alloy with sodium carbonate (washing soda) and hot water. This method only removes light tarnish, and pitting can occur very easily as well as scratches when the silver touches the aluminum. This method allows moisture to seep into handles or rims. This cleaning technique is not recommended.
Tarnish strips are made with activated charcoal. They absorb tarnish producing gases. They guard against tarnish not by emitting fumes, but by absorbing pollutants that cause the problem. A 2" x 7" strip will last for up to 24 months depending on how the silver is stored. One strip will protect about a 422 inch area (about the size of a silver chest).
Never leave salt in silver shakers as corrosion can occur. If you get corrosion it may be removed with ammonia. In a well ventilated area, soak for ten minutes. Inspect. If the corrosion doesn’t leave after 30 minutes the item needs professional help. The ammonia may cause a greying of the silver. If so, use silver polish and then rub with rouge cloth to return the luster.
If silver becomes extremely tarnish, a silversmith can buff silver to its original shine. You must be careful with silverplate items as they may be too thin to buff.
A gentle approach to polishing will preserve and maintain the beauty of silver. Patience, time, and a trained safe and skilled hand are crucial in cleaning silver. A well cleaned silver object should not have excess polish on it. All features of the silver object should be readily apparent and noticeable.